Catch a cab out to this traditional roadside tavern 7km from town, in the village of Gimonde en route to Montesinho. The ambience is down-home rural – think wooden beams and smoked hams hanging off the walls – and the food is the real deal.
Try the D Roberto steak, starters such as alheira (a light, garlicky sausage of poultry or game) and salpicão (pork sausage) and the delicious milho doce (sweetcorn) dessert.