Marked by a distinctive red-brick clocktower, this enormous warren of market halls dates to 1874 and is still officially known as Sir Stuart Hogg Market. If you look even remotely like you’re not a local, you’ll be accosted by a bevy of touts. The best ploy is to smile and say "I’m not here to buy anything, thanks" and keep walking. Early morning tends to be the calmest time to visit.
Amid the stalls, Nahoum Bakery have been selling old fashioned plum and fruit cakes from their wizened store since 1902. The lemon cakes are best. Chamba Lama sells Tibetan jewelry and Buddhist sculptures. There are some authentic antiques here but always insist on seeing certification for silver items. Pumposh (the Kashmiri name for "lotus") has sold cashmere shawls here since 1925 and it's now a third-generation family-run store. Bartering is encouraged.
