Part Nubian cultural centre with a library dedicated to Nubian history, part wonderful ecolodge in a traditional mud-brick house, Eskaleh is by far the most interesting place to stay or eat in Abu Simbel. It’s also a destination in its own right and a perfect base for a visit to the temples.
The friendly owner, Fikry El Kashef, a Nubian musician, was educated in Switzerland but returned to his homeland after the Abu Simbel temples were moved. In 2005, having worked for years as a guide, Fikry created this wonderful enclave beside the lake with the idea of sharing the Nubian experience with interested foreigners. Simple but comfortable rooms have local furniture, fans, air-con and good private bathrooms. Some also have a private terrace.
Nubian kitchen staff prepare delicious home-cooked meals (three-course lunch or dinner from €10 to €18) with organic produce from Fikry’s garden and fish from the lake (and beer is sometimes available). These take time – be prepared to wait. At night the quiet is absolute (apart from the dogs), a rare thing on the tourist trail along the Nile. Sometimes Fikry plays music with his friends, or hosts performances of Nubian music and dance. A boat is available (approximately €50 depending on the length of time) to take you out on the lake or to the temples.
