Lamu town has that quality of immediately standing out as you approach it from the water (and let’s face it – everything is better when approached from water). The shopfronts and mosques, faded under the relentless kiss of the salt wind, creep out from behind a forest of dhow masts. Then you take to the streets or, more accurately, the labyrinth – donkey-wide alleyways from which children grin; women whispering by...
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