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Bhopal’s third female ruler, Shah Jahan Begum, wanted to create the largest mosque in the world, so in 1877 she set about building the Taj-ul-Masjid. Still incomplete at her death in 1901, it was not finally finished until the 1980s. Fortress-like pink walls surround a 99-metre-square courtyard and a prayer hall with 27 scalloped ceiling domes and three gleaming eggshell-like domes on top, all overlooked by two towering minarets.

Try to make the dawn azan (Muslim call to prayer). An autorickshaw from Hamidia Rd costs ₹40. The entrance is from the south side.