The wonderful Bois de Vincennes is one of the capital's two ‘green lungs’ along with the Bois de Boulogne. Parisians flock to this 995-hectare forest for a breath of fresh air but also for the myriad of things to see and do, from boat rides on lakes to restorative nature walks, floral gardens, a zoo, a racecourse, a circus and a historic château.
Boating on the Lakes
Renting a rowboat on a sunny day is a classic Bois de Vincennes experience. Most do so at Lac Daumesnil, artificially built in 1860, to the west of the park. One-hour rides costs €15 for up to four people. The isles at the lake's centre, Île de Reuilly and Île de Bercy, can be accessed by a footbridge to the south. Don't miss the pretty, Greek-inspired Romantic Temple and the grotto below with waterfalls. Here and the surroundings are prime – and popular – for picnics and sunbathing.
Just south, the Kagyu-Dzong Buddhist temple and the towering Great Pagoda, open on weekends, make for a peaceful visit. Boats can also be rented (€12 per hour for up to four) at the north edge of the smaller, lesser-known Lac des Minimes, in the forest’s northeast. Drinks and snacks are available nearby at the Confiserie Du Lac, or, on Friday and Saturday nights, at Rosa Bonheur à l'Est, which hosts live music and DJs on an island in the lake until 1am.
Fun-Packed Flower Park
Inaugurated in 1969, the 28-hectare Parc Floral de Paris is one of the city's best places to admire flowers, from bonsai gardens to tropical greenhouses. Come between April and September (adult/child €2.70/1.55) for the best sights. The site itself is also jam-packed with family-centred activities, including an 18-hole mini-golf course, zip lines, an escape game, a children’s theatre and a butterfly garden. Majestic blue peacocks frequent the park and are easier to spot late morning or at lunchtime.
Château de Vincennes
To the north of the forest, Château de Vincennes attracts relatively few visitors. But this gleaming castle, which began in the 12th century as a hunting lodge before being transformed into a fortress, royal residence and prison, is worth an hour-long visit. Entry to the expansive courtyard is free, however a ticket (adult/child €13/free) is required for the site’s dungeon, one of the tallest in Europe, allowing you to explore and ascend the tower for a panoramic view. A ticket also allows entry to Ste-Chapelle, a small version of its famed counterpart in central Paris, with its stained-glass windows and beautiful entrance door, one of the first masterpieces of the flamboyant Gothic style.
Parc Zoologique de Paris
The Parc Zoologique de Paris (parczoologiquedeparis.fr/en; adult/child €22/17) is a whole lot of fun and great for a change of pace. Divided into geographic zones such as Patagonia, the Andes and Madagascar, this triangle-shaped zoo contains more than 3000 animals and 250 species. There are daily feeding sessions with animals, including giraffes, sea lions, ostriches and baboons, so check times before going.
Jardin d’Agronomie Tropicale
The lesser-known, tranquil Jardin d’Agronomie Tropicale is filled with lush vegetation and has remnants of the 1931 Colonial Exhibition, including a pretty Chinese gate and Cambodian stupa. Grab lunch or a coffee at the lovely cantine.
École du Breuil
The municipal École du Breuil is yet another delightful green space to visit, with a wonderful lotus garden and the benches at this horticulture school carved out from tree trunks.
La Cartoucherie
This La Cartoucherie of five theatres in the forest showcases theatre, dance and circus arts.