Santarém is a very worthwhile stop-off between Manaus and Belém. Although a bit gritty, it has a great tour operator and the waterfront promenade, breezy parks, and several good restaurants and sights. And just a short bus ride away is Alter do Chão, a cool little town with white-sand river beaches and a laid-back backpacker vibe. Both Santarém and Alter do Chão provide easy access to the Floresta Nacional (FLONA)...
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