This traffic-free square, lined with bars, restaurants and colorful 19th-century houses, is one of Santo Antônio's more peaceful spots and a good place to stop for a drink.

The 18th-century baroque Concatedral de São Pedro dos Clérigos – closed for long-term restoration on our visit – contains incredibly fine wood carvings, while the Memorial Chico Science highlights the revered founder of the mangue beat musical movement, who died tragically in a Recife car accident in 1997.