The ultimate weekend in Charlevoix

I live in Canada’s capital city, Ottawa, in Ontario, but just over the bridge lies the province of Québec, the perfect option for short family trips. Best known as a winter sports destination and just a 90-minute drive from Québec City, Charlevoix had never been on my fall travel radar, despite visiting numerous times in the colder months. But after spending a family weekend there sans snow, I’m a convert.

The region sits along the St Lawrence River in the upper estuary, where the waves rise with tides that can reach an impressive 6.5m. I’d previously come here to ski and enjoy the local cuisine, but this time I experienced a different side of one of Québec’s most beautiful regions before the snow and the skiers showed up.

Stunning fall colors that run the gamut from crisp yellow through vibrant orange and burnt red decorate the route, while charming towns, hikes, and opportunities to spot whales feature heavily on the ideal weekend itinerary for Charlevoix.

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• When to arrive: Arrive for a packed weekend adventure on Friday afternoon and leave after a hearty breakfast on Sunday morning.

• How to get from the airport: Rent a car to get from Québec City's Jean Lesage International Airport to Charlevoix, or you can drive on major highways from New York, Boston, Ottawa, Toronto and Montreal to Québec City before taking Route 138 to Charlevoix.

• Getting around the region: A rental car makes it easy to navigate mountain roads and travel between towns and attractions throughout Charlevoix.

• Where to stay: For families looking for a low-stress all-inclusive vacation, head to Club Med Québec Charlevoix, where all activities, entertainment, food and drinks are included for around CA$230-250 per adult, per night. To stay in the heart of the forest, check out Tanières MicroChalets for a stylish glamping experience from CA$180. Or to experience authentic Québec hospitality, stay in a traditional auberge (inn) like Auberge de la Rive de Charlevoix that features a communal kitchen for lively meal prep.

• What to pack: Active clothes that allow you to go from hiking to sightseeing. Bring layers and a raincoat, especially in fall. If you stay at Club Med, download their app for nightly fashion themes and pack accordingly!

Friday

Afternoon

The drive to Charlevoix brings you through some beautiful scenery on Route 138, including the towering 83m-high Montmorency Falls. Visible from the road, it’s well worth a stop, whether you admire it from below or take the cable car to the top for a dramatic vantage point. You can also try the via ferrata or zipline to the La Baronne lookout.

Then it's onward through dense Laurentian forests, small villages and charming towns as the mountains begin to close in on the highway. You’ll also pass Sanctuaire Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, an impressively large and ornate basilica that attracts Catholic pilgrims every year. 

The drive gets steep here, with warning signs advising motorists to go slow and steady as Le Massif rises sharply and the broad St Lawrence stretches out below.

Dinner

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If you’re staying at Club Med Québec Charlevoix, you can enjoy the expansive buffet, Le Marché. With chef stations, international fare, and local specialties, it's a cut above most standard buffet offerings. Their gourmet lounge, Le Chalet, offers sharing plates, charcuterie, and fondue experiences.

Alternatively, drive roughly 20 minutes into the artsy city of Baie-Saint-Paul. After browsing boutiques and art galleries, ask for a table on the waterfront terrace of Le Mouton Noir to sample local Québécois bistro cooking, including guinea fowl poutine made with foie gras sauce from La Ferme Basque and cheese from Laiterie Charlevoix.

Saturday

Morning 

Start the day with a locally roasted artisanal coffee at Café Charlevoix, before taking the gondola up to the top of Le Massif de Charlevoix. Tickets are CA$33 per adult.

At the top, hiking and mountain biking trails offer spectacular views over the St Lawrence, surrounding mountains, and Petite-Rivière-Saint-François. The 2km-long Le Buton trail takes about 45 minutes to walk the loop; climb the stairs to the lookout, where you’ll find a charming covered hut to stop for a snack or impromptu picnic. On previous visits, Le Massif had been blanketed in snow as I nervously made my way down the beginner slopes, never quite convinced I had any business being on skis to start with! This time, I felt far more confident on two feet, hiking through forests of fiery red maples and golden birches carpeting the mountainside. 

How to Spend the Day 

You can easily spend the day exploring Le Massif de Charlevoix on foot or charging down mountain bike trails, but for a signature Charlevoix experience, head to the water.

Drive toward Baie-Sainte-Catherine to enter the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park, regarded as one of the finest places in the world to go whale watching. Croisières AML offer a variety of whale-watching boat and zodiac tours. On the zodiac tours, you’ll be outfitted with waterproof and windproof suits to keep you warm as you head out into the Saguenay Fjord with a certified naturalist guide in search of minke whales, humpback whales, fin whales, harbor porpoises, common seals, and belugas.

You can also visit Pointe-Noire Interpretation and Observation Centre, where shoreline lookouts offer another chance to spot belugas and minke whales in the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park. 

Dinner

Stay in Baie-Sainte-Catherine for dinner at Café Chez Sam, a cozy waterside bistro serving homemade regional dishes with views across the Saguenay Fjord and St Lawrence.

Or, if you want to see more of Charlevoix, head southwest on Route 138 to La Malbaie, where you’ll find Chez Truchon serving a table d’hôte menu (a multi-course meal for one set price) entitled The Communal Table, featuring braised rabbit agnolotti and a French onion soup made with Dominus Vobiscum beer from the local Microbrasserie Charlevoix.

If you party a little too hard, worry not; you can always skip the drive and stay overnight, as the century-old building is also a charming auberge.

After Dark

Visit Cité Mémoire Charlevoix, a free outdoor multimedia experience around Pointe-au-Pic in La Malbaie that uses projections and storytelling to explore Charlevoix’s history. Or try your luck at the Casino de Charlevoix with table games and slot machines, and a range of bars and restaurants.

For a livelier night, drive inland and enjoy a speakeasy experience at Maison du Bootlegger, which includes a tour of its secret labyrinth and a live rock ‘n roll show.

Sunday 

Morning

The weekend has gone by far too quickly, but there’s still time for one last morning in Charlevoix before heading home. On your way back to Québec City, stop at Baie-Saint-Paul’s Les Bonyeuses, a bakery-cafe serving locally roasted coffee, fresh pastries, and breakfasts featuring regional ingredients such as Migneron de Charlevoix cheese. 

After breakfast, stroll along Rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste, popping into galleries such as Iris and Beauchamp, before visiting the Musée d’art contemporain de Baie-Saint-Paul. Don’t forget to pick up a souvenir or two and browse Twist Creations, which features handmade clothing, jewelry, and home decor from more than 130 artisans from across Québec and Canada.

So don’t make my mistake of sleeping on Charlevoix until ski season; come in fall, when colorful forests, mountain hikes, and whale watching make for a wonderful weekend escape.