A bohemian itinerary for Bahrain

May 28, 2021

5 MIN READ

Alexis Averbuck

Writer

Hydra

I’m all about seizing the day. Starting when I was a small kid I’ve travelled and lived all over the world — from Sri Lanka and Greece to Ecuador, Zanzibar and Antarctica. I love hardcore adventure: I shacked up on the Ice for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat, scuba-dived in a shark tank, etc. I began travel writing professionally at Harvard University and lately for Lonely Planet I’ve focused on Iceland, France, Italy, Greece and Antarctica. I’m also passionate about art (I’m an exh…

Bahrain might be the third smallest country in Asia but it is also a enticing place to visit. Sohini Mishra recalls her first trip to the island nation and how she fell in love with it.

I first arrived in Bahrain on a Friday noon in April via Abu Dhabi. My first impression of this archipelago of 70 odd islands officially called Kingdom of Bahrain was of a tiniest speck of land which you don’t even notice on the aircraft’s navigation system’s map till you actually hear the wheels open. Situated between the Qatari peninsula and north eastern coast of Saudi Arabia, this third smallest country of Asia was going to blow my mind over the next 4 days of my visit.

Bahrain also has the tiniest airport, second only to airports of mufassil districts of Africa that I have seen. After clearing immigration, I was out of the airport sitting in a car in less than five minutes zipping through what seemed like a dozen bridges over blue azure waters. In less than 15mins I reached the suburban district of Juffair in the capital city Manama, marked by tall buildings with glass facades that one couldn’t see the tips of from inside a car. What was strikingly unusual though was that on a Friday the city looks absolutely deserted; when I ask the driver he candidly said that it is the weekend so all businesses are closed. Taking a cue from a similar exchange with the reception staff, once in my room I decide to start my Bahrain visit exactly how it has welcomed me – by catching a nap. I wake up around 6pm to see a beautiful sunset through the glass windows of my room – a gigantic orange ball being engulfed by the navy blue waters of the Persian Gulf.

At this time of the day, the city seems to have risen from its afternoon siesta like a phoenix. Big fancy cars are speeding by in all directions, neon lights on both sides of the roads as eateries, supermarkets, coffee shops are vying for attention. When I decide to step out for dinner, I hitch a cab to the district of Adliya, barely 5-7minutes away from Juffair. Adliya was love at first sight with its graffiti painted walls, quirky message boards and photo booths. I decided to walk around what looked like a bohemian neighbourhood filled with French patisseries, boulangères, Sheesha bars, quaint Mediterranean cafes, Arabic restaurants, curio shops, art galleries and lo and behold discotheques. In Bahrain, one is thoroughly spoilt for choice of cuisine and options of dining out; each place prettier and food more exemplary than the other. My dinner at Lilou’s an extremely popular French restaurant was nothing short of delight on my first evening at the island.

I start my day-2 little early and head straight to Bab-Al-Bahrain which is the old marketplace or souk area. The old quarters which house all things traditional, has been given a befitting tourist makeover by the tourism board. The place is abuzz on a Saturday morning with a flea market, local artists selling their art both traditional and contemporary, woman making and selling traditional Bahraini delicacies and a live musical performance by traditional Sawt musicians. One couldn’t ask for a more beautiful introduction to the culture of the pearl of the middle east. After grabbing a quick local brunch of delectable kebabs and fresh breads, all washed down with chilled watermelon juice I head to Bahrain International Circuit. April being the Bahrain Grand Prix month, there are plenty of non-race events happening at the circuit which is a great experience in itself. On my way back, I make a quick stop at A’ali which is famous for its traditional handmade pottery which can be bought from potters directly. I had plans for some Japanese dinner at Celebrity master chef Katsuya Uechi’s Katsuya by Starck with stunning waterfront views at The Avenues- a high street look alike shopping arcade bang in the middle of the business district.

The next morning, I start my day at Bahrain’s national museum with a hearty breakfast at the museum café. The museum covers extensively the history, archaeology and anthropology of ancient Dilmun Empire and offers a boat trip to explore Bahrain’s fishing trail which was historically most prominent economic activity of Bahrain. Located right next door is the magnificent waterfront building of National Theatre. Middays in Bahrain tend to get very hot, so it is best to visit its sprawling shopping malls. I head to City Centre, Bahrain to spend the rest of the afternoon swooning over all my favourite international brands in one place. City Centre has a wide range of international chains of cafes and restaurants; I couldn’t resist a meal at P.F. Chang with their signature dynamite prawns.

After eating and shopping to my heart’s content, I took a taxi to the Bahrain fort located on the western fringes which is a great spot for watching the sunset too The fort is fairly modest but is an example of Bahrain’s pride by the way it is maintained with a small museum, café and curio shop. The café often hosts cultural events, so do check their event of the day in case you are interested. I call it a night at Bennigans, an American sports bar with outstanding club food and great draught beer. (Yes! In Bahrain you also drink liberally unlike a lot of other Islamic nations).

Tips for your Bahrain trip
1. It is advisable to carry some forex in local currency from your point of origin. Bahrain’s currency is Bahraini Dinar(BHD) which as of 2021 is valued at 1BHD=196INR approx.
2. Best time to Visit Bahrain in November to March. The weather is lovely and lot of local events to attend.
3. Bahrain is fairly liberal in its outlook towards women and clothing; however, it is advisable to wear clothes covering knees and shoulders when visiting old quarters and mosques.
4. The air-conditioning of the malls hits you hard if you aren’t used to the typical middle eastern climate; it is advisable to carry a stole with you.