Introduction

This is the big one: the incomparable Cabot Trail is a looping, diving, dipping roller coaster of a road that snakes for 297km around the northern tip of Cape Breton, with epic views of rolling seas, mountain passes and thick forests, and – if you're lucky – perhaps the sight of a moose, an eagle or even a whale along the way.

From Englishtown to St Ann's Bay, artists' workshops dot the southeastern flank of the trail like Easter eggs: there are pottery, leather, glass and pewter workers, painters and sculptors, and you can also discover living remnants of Mi'kmaw and Acadian culture.

This is not a road to rush. Many people race through in a day, but the real pleasure of the trail is taking your time, stopping at the roadside lookouts, hiking the hidden trails and really getting the most out of the scenery.