Magul Maha Vihara

Magul Maha Viharaya, ancient Buddhist temple, Pottuvil, Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka

Magul Maha Viharaya, ancient Buddhist temple, Pottuvil, Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka

About 12km west of Pottuvil lies this evocative 5th-century ruin, set in a peaceful forested spot. Probably built by King Dhatusena (r 459–77), the site was most likely part of a royal compound. At the foot of a former shrine is a beautiful and well-preserved moonstone; ringed with elephants, it’s unusual for having little riders atop some of them. The site is 800m south of the A4 on a road just west of the 307km post.

There's also an elevated stupa, in good condition and guarded by stone lions, a vatadage (circular relic house) on a cross-shaped platform that – in a stroke of ancient trompe l’oeil – is ‘supported’ by the stone pillars and crouched lions around its base, and a crudely patched up headless Buddha. Note the streamlined elephant-trunk railings along the site’s staircases. Some sources contend that parts of the temple date to the 2nd century BC.

A little further east, between the 308km and 309km posts is Kotawehera, the ruined remains of an ancient brick stupa, which enjoys a magnificent situation upon a hilltop. On a clear day, there are spectacular vistas over forests to the wetlands around Pottuvil Lagoon.

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