Sumbawa Besar, often shortened to ‘Sumbawa’, is the principal market town of the island’s west. It’s leafy, devoutly Muslim (that legion of nearby karaoke bars notwithstanding), and runs on the bushels of beans, rice and corn cultivated on the outskirts. There’s not much to see here aside from the old palace and a lively morning market. Trips to Pulau Moyo and to nearby villages are worthwhile but take time and...
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