Scheduled daily flights to Lethem and charter air services to interior destinations such as Annai, Kaieteur and Iwokrama are available from the Ogle International Airport in Georgetown. These tickets cannot generally be booked online and it's easiest to book through a local travel agency to arrange them. Air Services Limited and Trans Guyana Airways each ply the Georgetown–Lethem–Georgetown route twice a day. A one-way ticket costs G$30,000. Both these airlines, plus Roraima Airways arrange charter flights to various air strips in the country.
While a lot of locals use bikes to get around Georgetown and a few other places in the country, it's not easy to recommend owing to safety issues caused by poor roads and dangerous driving. There is also nowhere to rent a bike.
Regular ferry services cross the Essequibo River between Charity and Bartica, with a stop at Parika (reached by paved highway from Georgetown). More frequent speedboats (river taxis) carry passengers from Parika to Bartica.
Buses are the main way for locals to get around the country, and while they're a fascinating cultural experience, they're also uncomfortable, overcrowded, noisy and in many cases downright dangerous, with drivers who seem to care little for the safety of passengers or pedestrians, terrible road conditions and the ever-present threat of pickpocketing.
The main hub in the country is Georgetown, and from here cheap local buses speed between points all over the city and suburbs, while minibuses to destinations along the coast cost up to G$1500.
The primary long-distance bus route through the country is the epic overnight trip along the country's only main road – the unsealed track that ploughs through the rainforest via Linden, Iwokrama and Annai to Lethem. Between Georgetown and Lethem one way is G$10,000–G$14,000 (15–20 hours, daily, 6pm, may be cancelled during the wet season). The best-known operators are Carly's, P&A Bus Services and BD Express, although there are many more.
Car & Motorcycle
Rental cars are available in Georgetown, though not from the airport at the time of writing. A Driving Permit (available for free at the Cheddi Jagan International Airport arrivals terminal) is required for car rental (an International Driving Permit won't suffice). Driving in Guyana is on the left.
If you book your trip on a tour or directly through lodges, they will shuttle you around in their high-cost overland 4WDs. The lodges aren't trying to fleece you – it's the cost of fuel in the Rupununi that makes these options so expensive and yet most people choose to travel this way for convenience. Sample one-way fares for a jeep for up to four people are: Annai to Lethem G$60,000; Annai to Karanambu G$100,000; and Lethem to Dadanawa G$60,000. Travel times are highly variable, depending on the season. Traveling in groups can ease the expense.
If you're not in a group, getting around by motorcycle is a much cheaper option. This entails finding a local willing to take you (lodges will help with this), having small enough luggage to strap on the back of a motorbike or wear on your back, and having a very sturdy rear end (expect extremely bumpy rides).
Sample costs per person: Lethem to Dadanawa G$15,000; and Caiman House to Karanambu G$10,000. A full day's hire, including a driver and gas, should be around G$60,000.
Many taxi companies travel between Georgetown and coastal destinations, although they cost significantly more than buses and minibuses. They can be good value for a group.
There are no trains in Guyana.