Guide to Ōamaru and Waitaki on New Zealand's South Island

If you’re driving across New Zealand’s South Island during the peak summer season of November through March, it might start to feel like you and every other tourist have the exact same itinerary. With heavy-hitter attractions like Lake Tekapo and Aoraki/Mt Cook situated along Highway 8, getting stuck behind a convoy of motorhomes is impossible to avoid.

But a quiet reprieve is just around the corner. At Ōmarama, turn off the highway southeast towards Ōamaru. The massive lakes and rolling hills are just as beautiful, but it’s not long before the crowds thin out. And around every turn, the road will let you in on another local secret. Discover the country’s smallest wine region; a geopark that still contains ancient fossils embedded in its unusual rock formations; and the world’s biggest steampunk museum.

This is Waitaki, one of the South Island’s most underrated regions. Here’s why you should include it on your South Island itinerary, and the sights you can’t miss along the way.

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When Should I Go to Ōamaru & Waitaki?

Waitaki’s biggest town, Ōamaru, is a year-round destination. However, restaurants and attractions elsewhere in Waitaki cater primarily to cyclists riding the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail from October to April. During the off-season (May to September), businesses throughout Waitaki may be closed or have reduced hours.

If you do find yourself in Waitaki in the middle of winter though, you might be in luck. Ōamaru’s Steampunk Festival – potentially your only chance to witness the delightfully weird sports of teapot racing and parasol duelling – is held in June.

It isn’t, however, your only opportunity to dress up in Victorian garb. Held annually in November, Ōamaru’s Victorian Heritage Celebrations are just as lively. Expect penny-farthing races, a grand parade, and garden parties that even Katherine Mansfield – a famed Kiwi who authored The Garden Party – would beg for an invite to. Contact the Victorian Wardrobe to sort out your old-timey fit, with costume hire starting from $40.

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How Much Time Should I Spend in Waitaki?

The Waitaki is a relatively compact region that stretches from the Southern Alps to the ocean, and it only takes about 90 minutes to drive from Ōmarama to Ōamaru. However, there’s a surprising amount to do, so budget 2 to 3 days, including 1 night in Ōamaru to watch little penguins come ashore after sunset. If you’d like to add the nearby Ahuriri Valley to your itinerary, add an extra day at minimum.

Is it Easy to Get in and Around Waitaki?

This is a tried-and-true road trip destination. While it’s possible to access both Ōmarama and Ōamaru via the InterCity bus from Christchurch or Queenstown, you’ll need wheels to explore Waitaki Valley. For the best views, drive from Ōamaru inland towards the Alps – although the scenery is stunning regardless of your direction of travel.

One of the most popular ways to explore Waitaki is by tackling the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail between October and April. It follows historic rail routes and takes riders through the Alps, alongside turquoise lakes and through unusual ancient rock formations. It takes 5 days to cycle the Waitaki Valley section of the trail (starting from Lake Ōhau), with operators such as Cycle Journeys offering bike hire and support. For organized tours, contact Adventure South NZ.

Where Should I Stay in Waitaki?

Where to Stay in Ōamaru

This is one of New Zealand/Aotearoa’s quirkiest destinations, so make sure your accommodation is, too. Skip the motels at the edge of town and book a night somewhere within walking distance from the Victorian precinct, instead.

One of my favourite spots is Poshtel. Decorated with vintage décor, its rooms are tastefully themed; I last stayed in the Antarctic Explorer Suite, which pays homage to NZ’s connection to antipodean adventures.

The budget options have just as much character. The highly reviewed Oamaru Backpackers has a huge, light-filled lounge room and is in the ideal location, just steps from the Heritage Precinct.

Where to Stay in Waitaki Valley

Quaint cottages and boutique hotels marketed to Alps 2 Ocean cyclists are easy to come by in Waitaki, including in Kurow and Otematata. Check Airbnb for listings.

The region’s newest accommodation, though, is decidedly romantic – three private villas perched above Clos Ostler’s vineyard. Each features a kitchenette and private patio to admire the views, complete with an outdoor bathtub.

Where to Stay near Ōmarama

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Head roughly 25 minutes inland from Ōmarama and down an unassuming dirt road. Here, you’ll discover what might just be New Zealand’s most memorable destination that you’ve never heard of: the Ahuriri Valley.

The Lindis Lodge – a luxury complex that has won countless architectural awards for blending effortlessly into the surrounding high-alpine tussocks – is at its epicentre and very much worth its premium nightly rate. With countless activities on offer – including fly fishing, horseback riding, hiking and eating and drinking your body weight – a stay will be the highlight of your trip to NZ.

If you're not prepared to splash out thousands, though, all you need is access to a 4WD or a good pair of hiking boots to stay at a DOC hut in the Ahuriri Valley for just $15/night.

Top Things to Do in Ōamaru & Waitaki

Step Both Back in Time and into a Sci-Fi Future in Ōamaru’s Victorian Precinct

Ōamaru’s Harbour Street takes less than 10 minutes to walk from end-to-end, but you don’t need much more time to be transported back to the late 19th century. This is when Ōamaru was a boomtown, built from whitestone quarried locally with the profits of the grain and wool industry. Amongst the preserved historic warehouses and offices, you’ll find art galleries and gift shops galore.

But this isn’t just a place for high teas and doilies. The precinct is the perfect setting for what has become the home of steampunk. Not a fan of H.G. Wells (not to be confused with H.P. Lovecraft)? The sci-fi genre blends 19th-century fashion with retro-futuristic steam technology – which is celebrated at Steampunk HQ, an expansive warehouse-style museum devoted to the genre, with all sorts of interactive displays. You can climb inside a rocket, play an organ, and watch the ticking of a Doomsday clock (as if the nightly news weren’t enough).

Carry gold coins to bring the massive airship out front to life, complete with pyrotechnics. Finally, don’t miss the nearby steampunk playground at Friendly Bay, where you can swing from pennyfarthings and slide down an elephant’s back.

Meet the World’s Smallest Penguins

Ōamaru is arguably the best spot in New Zealand to witness the nightly parade of little penguins (a species endemic to Australia and New Zealand) returning home from their day fishing at sea. Numbers can fluctuate throughout the year, but during the peak viewing months (September to February), you can expect to see hundreds of these little fellows waddling up the rocks, past the sleeping fur seals and back to the safety of their nest boxes just after sundown.

Book in advance and opt for the premium tickets, which get you much closer to the action. Be sure to arrive 30 minutes early to explore the Discovery Centre, where you can build and "release" your own virtual penguin.

Discover One of NZ’s Best Hidden Wine Regions

Internationally, New Zealand is known for Marlborough's sauvignon blancs and Hawke’s Bay’s chardonnays. But nestled between Kurow and Ōamaru, you’ll find the Waitaki Valley Wine Region, one of the country’s best destinations for serious oenophiles. The limestone-rich slopes are perfect for producing pinot gris and pinot noir, with about nine vineyards in the region.

Two currently offer tasting room experiences: Valli Wines, directly in Kurow, offers a high-end tasting experience in the town’s former post office. For more of an in-situ experience, visit River-T Estate, where you can sip the good drop while looking out on the vineyards. Next door, Te Kano Estate has plans to open its own cellar door.

Soak in the Views in Ōmarama

Wood-fired hot tubs are all the rage in New Zealand, but they hit a bit harder on the chilly South Island, especially when you’ve just finished a long day of hiking or cycling.

At Hot Tubs Ōmarama, you’ll get a private tub for up to six people, with views of the adjacent pond and surrounding mountains. For the best views and least noise, request one of the higher-numbered tubs further away from the road.

Gawk at the Otherworldly Clay Cliffs

Wandering amongst these sharp pinnacles and ridges that jut up into the sky is a worthwhile detour from Ōmarama. Formed up to 20 million years ago by gravel, sand and silt deposited by ancient lakes and rivers, they’re a photographer’s dream.

The Clay Cliffs are situated on private farmland and accessible via a gravel road. While it’s 2WD accessible, it can be worse for wear (potholes are its defining feature), so budget plenty of time for the drive, which takes about 15 to 20 minutes from Ōmarama. Entry is $10 (in cash) per vehicle, payable via the honesty box near the gate.

Play Palaeontologist in Waitaki Valley

Some 20 to 30 million years ago, Waitaki Valley was the floor of a sea that was inhabited by whales, dolphins and invertebrates. Signs of this ancient history can be seen throughout Waitaki Valley, with whale fossils still embedded in the surrounding limestone.

This history is celebrated by the Whitestone Waitaki Geopark, a network of sites stretching from Ahuriri Valley to Moeraki’s iconic boulders on the beach. But some of the top sites in the geopark – including the Takiroa Māori rock drawings, Valley of the Whales and the Elephant Rocks – are situated within 20 minutes of the small settlement of Duntroon.

Duntroon is also home to Vanished World. Fully refurbished in 2026, the museum features displays on the area's geology and fossils, with fun hands-on activities for kids, including the opportunity to excavate a genuine fossil.

My Favorite Thing to Do in Waitaki

If Waitaki is the South Island’s most underrated region, might the Benmore Peninsula Walk be its most underrated short hike? I’d argue yes. The trail’s beginnings – largely through a forest of non-native trees – aren’t of particular note. But if you persist to the top of the peninsula, you’ll have to hold your jaw to prevent it from dropping off your face.

Standing high above Lake Benmore, you’ll have impressive views of the surrounding river systems and, on a clear day, the Southern Alps in the distance. Budget 90 minutes for the circuit walk (although fit hikers who don’t have kids in tow will find they can complete it in less than an hour). The trailhead and parking lot can be found just past the Benmore Dam at the end of Loch Laird Rd.

How Much Money Do I Need for Waitaki?

Traveling through New Zealand isn’t a budget holiday. Yet, Waitaki offers relatively good value in comparison to some more highly touristed South Island destinations, with accommodation and activities generally more affordable than in Queenstown or Lake Tekapo.

• Night at a midrange hotel in Ōamaru: $150 to $250

• Premium viewing at Ōamaru penguins: $70/$42 adult/child

• Breakfast at Waitaki Braids in Kurow: $25

• Wine tasting in the Waitaki Wine Valley: $20

• Vanished World entry: $18/$9 adult/child

Jessica Lockhart stayed at the Lindis Lodge and Clos Ostler at the invitation of the Lindis Group. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies for positive coverage.