A weekend in Bhopal

The soul of the heart of India, that is how one can best describe the capital city of Madhya Pradesh, Bhopal. A small town which has two distinctly exclusive sides leaves you enthralled, should you choose to spend a couple of days here. The history-laden lanes of Bhopal’s old city evoke the laid-back charm of a time gone by, while the new town is full of youthful delights. So, bring out your hats, put on your shoes and come with us on a curated weekend itinerary that will ensure you indulge in experiences that represent the best of both the worlds.

Day 1

Begin your day early with a perfect old-world breakfast and morning cuppa at the Indian Coffee House in New Market before heading out to the Van Vihar National Park. Bhopal’s Bada Talaab on your right will offer you breath-taking views of the lake; while on the left you have the green of the forest punctuated with white tigers, leopards, crocodiles and sambhar in their enclosures. This stretch could be covered on bicycles, which are available for hire.

Bhopal is home to some of country’s richest museums—about a dozen diverse kinds. As the day edges towards noon and it gets warm outside, we suggest you take a tour of the Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya or Museum of Man. An anthropology museum, it presents to its visitors, the history of evolution of man in context of nature and ecology. Located in the same complex Tribal Museum is a must do as well, as seven major tribes of Madhya Pradesh – Gond, Bhil, Baiga, Kol, Korku, Sahariya, Bhariya — have recorded their fast disappearing traditions in the museum by transforming the oral narratives into huge paintings and sculptures.

When you are ready for lunch, you should head to Noor-Us-Sabah, a residential palace built in 1920 by the then Nawab for his daughter, which is now a heritage hotel. You can choose from a choice of Indian or Oriental fare at any one of their restaurants, though we highly recommend Za-Aiqa that serves delectable Indian food.

For your evening in the City of Lakes, you should not miss a boat ride on Bhopal’s magnificent lake that stretches over a 100kms in length. Take a boat to the middle of the lake and watch the sun go down as the waves splash all around you. Make a quick halt at Bharat Bhawan; enjoy live music recitals, theatre and art exhibitions. For dinner, make sure that you go to ‘Under The Jamun Tree’ at Jehanuma Retreat. Enjoy an evening feeling like royals feasting upon some of Bhopal’s unique delicacies like Murg Rezzala, Filfora and Kebabs before calling it a day.

Day 2

Begin the second day by heading straight to the old city, and savoring the quintessential sweet and savoury combo of Poha-Jalebi. After breakfast take a walking tour from Iqbal Maidan to Gauhar Mahal, Shaukat Mahal and Sadar Manzil to soak in the history and architecture of Bhopal, a city distinguished by a long history of women rulers and their imprints.

Just a short drive away is India’s largest mosque, Taj-ul-Masjid that stands majestically with a pink façade and two 18-storey high minarets. The Mosque with its distinct Mughal Architecture shares quite a few similarities with the likes of Jama Masjid of Delhi and Badshahi Mosque of Lahore. Its marble domes, octagonal minarets, central tank, double-storyed gateway and nine cusped multifold openings in the main prayer hall all weave a beautiful example of Bhopal’s rich history.

Once done with the old city, head to Jehan Numa Palace Hotels to enjoy a sumptuous Italian lunch at La Cuchina, which we insist you finish with their special floating Tiramisu. After lunch, take a taxi to the nearby New Market and shop for souvenirs. The MP state emporium Mrignaynee situated right at the corner of the market is a great place to pick local fabric, block printed fabric, saris, dress materials and tribal handicrafts. Watch the city come to life in the evening as locals come out, while gorging on a Kulfi (from the cart just opposite the Mrignaynee store) before heading back with memories of a lifetime.

If you have more time at hand, one can include a day trip to nearby places like Kerwa Dam, which offers some adventure activities including Zipline over the lake, and Bhimbetka, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with 750 rock shelters featuring Paleolithic and Mesolithic period cave paintings. Both are conveniently located