Sights in Cambodia
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Tuol Sleng Museum
S-21 has been turned into the Tuol Sleng Museum, which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. Entry is on the western side of St 113.
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Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm is as seductive as Lara Croft. The site of some of her cinematic adventures, it is a series of dark galleries and pillars held hostage under the iron clasp of gigantic roots. The walls are decorated with carvings of sensuous celestial nymphs with smaller roots crawling across them like a rash.
Built in AD 1186 by King Jayavarman VII, the temple was dedicated to his mother. In its prime it was a holy trunk of great treasures. According to the Sanskrit inscriptions on the walls, the temple held thousands of pearls, precious stones and golden dishes weighting more than 500kg.
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Killing Fields of Choeung Ek
Rising above the 129 mass graves in the Killing Fields is a blinding white stupa (religious monument, often containing Buddha relics) that serves as a memorial to the approximately 17,000 men, women and children who were executed here by the Khmer Rouge between mid-1975 and December 1978.
Encased inside the stupa are almost 9000 human skulls found during excavations here in 1980. Many of these skulls still bear witness to the fact that they were bludgeoned to death for the sake of saving precious bullets.
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Koh Ta Kiev
There are quite a few islands dotting the gulf within day-trip distance of Sihanoukville. For snorkelling, Koh Ta Kiev is one of the best.
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Beng Mealea
Visitors to Beng Mealea are confronted with a mass of ruins half devoured by a ravenous jungle. The temple's abandoned stones lie like forgotten jewels swathed in lichen and its temple complex strangled by ivy and vines. Brought to you by the same man who built Angkor Wat, King Suryavarman II, it is similar in style to his later effort but receives only a fraction of the guests.
Beng Mealea is 70km northeast of Siem Reap on a sealed private road. You can get there in a chartered taxi.
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Banteay Srei
This 'Citadel of Women' dedicated to Shiva, is a stunning tour de force of classical art and the most ornate of all of the temples. Though it is relatively tiny in size compared to its mammoth counterparts, it has the most intricate carvings and is believed to be the instigator of the Khmer art movement. The detail is astounding and each doorway, each lintel and every wall is a masterpiece.
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McDermott Gallery
This photography gallery is home to John McDermott’s striking sepia-style images of the temples. For a preview of the temples in a different light, check out his online collection.
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Angkor Thom
From Angkor Wat, the bridge leading to the south gate of Angkor Thom has two incredible balustrades of giants handling nagas (mythical serpents, often multiheaded), an incredible first impression made only more dreamlike by the elephants plodding out of the arched entrance topped by the four enormous faces of Avalokiteshvara (the Buddha of Compassion). Angkor Thom is a walled compound bordered by a 100m wide moat. It was built by the great King Jayavarman VII (r 1181-1219) as his royal palace.
The complex has five gateways, each with double portals. Four of the gateways point to each side of the compass, while the fifth is a Victory Gateway.
Behind the 8m walls lie some of…
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Bokor Hill Station
The eerie ruins of the old French hill station of Bokor, high atop Phnom Bokor (1080m), are known for their cool - even chilly - mountain climate and dramatic vistas of the coastal plain, one vertical kilometre below.
The road up to Bokor was built from 1917 to 1921 by Cambodian indentured labourers, many of whom perished. By the early 1920s a French holiday settlement had been established and a grand hotel-casino, the Bokor Palace, was inaugurated in 1925.
The hill station was twice abandoned: first when Vietnamese and Khmer Issarak (Free Khmer) forces overran it in the late 1940s while fighting for independence from France, and again in 1972 when the Lon Nol regime left…
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Banteay Chhmar
Originally enclosed by a 9km-long wall, the temple housed one of the largest and most impressive Buddhist monasteries of the Angkorian period. Today, it is one of the few temples to feature the enigmatic, Bayon-style visages of Avalokiteshvara, with their mysterious - and world famous - smiles.
On the temple's east side, a huge bas-relief on a partly-toppled wall dramatically depicts naval warfare between the Khmers (on the left) and the Chams (on the right), with the dead - some being devoured by crocodiles - at the bottom. Further south (to the left) are scenes of land warfare with infantry and elephants. There are more martial bas-reliefs along the exterior of the…
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Koh Paen
Koh Paen is a rural island in the Mekong River, connected to the southern reaches of Kompong Cham town by an elaborate bamboo bridge in the dry season or a local ferry in the wet season. The bamboo bridge is an attraction in itself, totally built by hand each year and looking like it is made of matchsticks from afar. There are plenty of local wats on the island and locals make a living fishing, as well as growing tobacco and sesame.
During the dry season, several sandbars, the closest thing to a beach in this part of Cambodia, appear around the island. The best way to get about the island is by bicycle, which is possible to arrange through some of the budget guesthouses…
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Phnom Kulen
From a lofty height of 20m, the Phnom Kulen waterfall cascades off the mountain where King Jayavarman II announced independence from Java and proclaimed himself god-king. The river here also runs over lingas and is an attractive sight for modern-day pilgrims. There is also an 8m-long reclining Buddha and a small temple nearby.
There is also a little explored unnamed set of ruins at the foot of the mountain that is gaining mythical status among locals. Not many know how to get there, though they know of its existence. Would-be explorers are challenged to find it!
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Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau
About half-way up the cement access road to the summit, a turn-off leads 250m up the hill to the Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau. An enchanted staircase, flanked by greenery, leads into a cavern where a golden reclining Buddha lies peacefully next to a glass-walled memorial, dedicated in 2007, filled with the bones and skulls of some of the people bludgeoned to death by Khmer Rouge cadres before being thrown through the overhead skylight.
Nearby is the old memorial, a rusty cage made of chicken wire and cyclone fencing.
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Koh Trong
Lying just across the water from Kratie is the island of Koh Trong, an almighty sandbar in the middle of the river. Cross here by boat with a bicycle in tow and enjoy a slice of rural island life. This could be the Don Khong of Cambodia in years to come and attractions include an old stupa and a small floating village, as well as the chance to encounter one of the rare Mekong mud turtles who inhabit the western shore.
Catch the little ferry from the port or charter a local boat (USaround US$2) to get here.
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Wat Phnom
Set on top of a 27m-high tree-covered knoll, Wat Phnom is on the only ‘hill’ in town. According to legend, the first pagoda on this site was erected in 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposited here by the waters of the Mekong River and discovered by Madame Penh. The main entrance to Wat Phnom is via the grand eastern staircase, which is guarded by lions and naga (mythical serpent) balustrades.
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Cambodia Land Mine Museum
Established by DIY de-miner Aki Ra, this museum has eye-opening displays on the curse of land mines in Cambodia. The collection includes mines, mortars, guns and weaponry, and there is a mock minefield where visitors can attempt to locate the deactivated mines. Proceeds from the museum are ploughed into mine-awareness campaigns. The museum is about 25km from Siem Reap, near Banteay Srei.
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Royal Palace
With its classic Khmer roofs and ornate gilding, the Royal Palace dominates the diminutive skyline of Phnom Penh. It is a striking structure near the riverfront, bearing a remarkable likeness to its counterpart in Bangkok. Hidden away behind protective walls and beneath shadows of soaring ceremonial buildings, it’s an oasis of calm with lush gardens and leafy havens.
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temples
At the summit of this fabled limestone outcrop, 12km southwest of Battambang along NH57 (towards Pailin), a complex of temples - several built recently thanks to donations from overseas Khmers - affords gorgeous views of the surrounding plains and, to the south, Phnom Banan. Some of the macaques that live around the summit, dining on bananas left as offerings, are pretty ornery.
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Otres Beach
Otres Beach is looking to be the new hot spot as the Occheuteal beach residents are rumoured to be getting the heave-ho by a private hotel company with ambitious plans for a luxury hotel.
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Wat Athvea
Wat Athvea is a pretty pagoda set on the site of an ancient sandstone temple that sees far fewer visitors than Angkor. It‘s south of the city centre, on the road to Tonlé Sap lake.
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Botum Sakor National Park
Occupying almost the entirety of the 35km-wide peninsula across the Gulf of Kompong Som from Sihanoukville, this 1834-sq-km national park, encircled by mangroves and beaches, is home to a profusion of wildlife, including elephants (about 20 of them, according to recent camera-trap evidence), tigers, deer, leopards and sun bears. The highest point is a 402m hill in the park's almost inaccessible interior.
Although a road is being built down the park's eastern side (it will eventually go all the way round the peninsula's coastline), the best way to see Botum Sakor is by boat. To get to the mangrove forests on the east coast and the almost deserted beaches on the park's…
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Prasat Preah Vihear
Prasat Preah Vihear, an important place of pilgrimage during the Angkorian period, was built by a succession of seven Khmer monarchs, beginning with Yasovarman I (r 889-910) and ending with Suryavarman II (r 1112-1152), builder of Angkor Wat. Like other temple-mountains from this period, it was designed to represent Mt Meru and was dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva.
For generations, Prasat Preah Vihear has been a source of tension between Cambodia and Thailand. This area was ruled by Thailand for several centuries but retroceded to Cambodia during the French protectorate, under the treaty of 1907. In 1959 the Thai military seized the temple from Cambodia and then-Prime…
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Rovieng Ranger Station
Another impressive collection of seatless cars and ox carts loaded with illegal wood fills the yard at Rovieng, but the most valuable contraband here is aromatic moras preuv oil, extracted from the roots of the endangered Disoxylon loureiri tree and kept in scores of plastic jerry cans. It has a delightful, sandalwood-like scent and keeps away both mossies and rats but interests smugglers because it can be used to make the drug ecstasy.
Other impounded objects stored here include chainsaws, snares (including some specially designed to catch pangolins) and guns.Bulletin-board photos show clandestine sawmills, stills used to make moras preuv oil, confiscated bush meat and…
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Stung Phong Roul Waterfall
Although well off the beaten path, this is one of Cambodia's most spectacular waterfalls, with five big drops arrayed around a vertiginous curve in the river. Clambering around is tough but worth it, as there are some good swimming holes at the right time of year.
The uppermost waterfall is a dramatic 10m high. Flat rock ledges border clear, surprisingly cool pools and are ideal for a romantic picnic. If you sit quietly with your feet in the water, little fish - God knows how they got up here - may nibble your toes.
Stung Phong Roul Waterfall is about 20km northeast of Sre Ambel in the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains. As the crow flies, Kirirom National Park is 20km…
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Preah Khan
Preah Khan's history is shrouded in mystery, but it was long an important religious site and some of the structures here date back to the 9th century. Both Suryavarman II, builder of Angkor Wat, and Jayavarman VII lived here at various times during their lives, suggesting that Preah Khan was something of a second city in the Angkorian empire.
Originally dedicated to Hindu deities, it was reconsecrated to Mahayana Buddhist worship during a monumental reconstruction undertaken by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. The central structure, which included libraries and a pond for ablutions, has been devastated by looting in recent years. As recently as…
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