Muğla (moo-lah) is a rarity for a Turkish provincial capital – compact and relaxed, with plane-tree-lined boulevards and narrow streets that lead to a historic quarter. The whitewashed Ottoman houses are particularly well preserved and there's an array of chilled çay bahçesi (tea gardens) filled with friendly students from the nearby university. Muğla makes for a pleasant (and easy) reintroduction to Turkish urban life after a spell on the beach.
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