Picture this: sunflower-yellow walls of a wedding-cake-like building surround the outdoor pools, on dreary winter days steam rises into the frigid air while snow freezes your hair, and old chaps playing chess in the water is an everyday sight. The crown jewel of City Park, all-round splendid Széchenyi Baths, is one of the largest spa complexes in Europe and just as epic as it sounds.
Inside & Outside
There’s a variety of indoor thermal pools, as well as saunas and steam cabins, and many medical amenities, including massages. While the indoor section sometimes feels like a labyrinth, where getting lost is part of the fun, the outdoor area is simply stunning – bright-yellow neoclassical architecture vividly contrasts the blue waters. There are three outdoor pools; the coldest is for swimming (caps required), the warm one is for fun with a whirlpool in the middle, and the hot one is for relaxing.
Have a Healing Soak in Suds
While visiting Széchenyi Baths is a special experience in itself, if you’d like to up the ante, you can soak in an acacia tub for two filled with hot thermal water (36°C) infused with natural extracts used to brew beer, including malts, hops, brewer’s yeast and barley, as well as beer bath salts shipped from the Czech Republic. If this sounds like some sort of hokey gimmick, think again. Brewer’s yeast is one of those time-honored cure-alls and is said to improve digestion, boost the body’s immune system and restore hair and skin thanks to its high vitamin B content, while hops are a natural sedative. So, no surprise that the practice has been around since the 16th century – at least in Prague. Unlimited Czech craft beer on tap is available. There are two halls at Széchenyi (both with six tubs) – one for those who only want to try the beer spa, and the other for those who would also like to enter Széchenyi Baths afterwards. Emerald-colored Zsolnay tiles and hops shapes adorn the walls. Cheers!
Sparty Up!
After sundown on Saturday nights, elegant Széchenyi Baths lets loose and turns into a party place. DJs start spinning disks (mostly blasting electronic music), a laser show lights up the historic walls outside and acrobatic performances happen at times. This is the so-called "Szecska sparty" (from "spa" and "party") that starts after the official closing hours at 9.30pm and lasts until 2am. You can book ahead online or pay at the door if there’s still space inside. Note that the daytime services like saunas and massages are not available during the sparty, and there are generally more guys than girls.
Try a Sip of the Healing Water
Széchenyi Baths has a separate building behind that sells the healing thermal water to drink by the bottle. It costs next to nothing – you get 1.5L for about half a euro, and it’s best to bring your own bottle. The drinking hall is closed on Sundays.
A Trip to the Tropics?
While Széchenyi Baths tends to be jam-packed with tourists in the high season and over the Christmas period, not so many people know about the rooftop Palm House, an exclusive indoor retreat filled with lush green plants, ample sunshine, water features, two-seater hammocks and comfy cushions. The temperature in summer is about the same as outside, but more humid and steamy, which is great for your skin and lungs. In winter, there’s floor heating, and when the gentle orange lights turn on just below the snow-covered glass rooftop, the experience is magical. Fruit bowls, tea and refreshments are available, and you can opt for relaxing massages. Note that you need a separate ticket for the Palm House.
Early Bird
As Széchenyi is Budapest’s most popular bathhouse, it tends to get super-busy in the afternoons and on weekends, and people are packed in the water like sardines. For a more peaceful and relaxing experience, try to beat the crowds by coming early on a weekday – Széchenyi opens as early as 7am on weekdays and 8am on weekends.
