Palacio de los Guzmán

Just off the old town's Calle Caballeros, this rambling palace was the home of the Duques de Medina Sidonia, the aristocratic family that once owned more of Spain than anyone else. The mostly 17th-century house, of 12th-century origin, bursts with antiques, and paintings by Goya, Zurbarán and other Spanish greats. Stop for coffee and cakes in its old-world cafe, with tables amid palm- and hibiscus-sprinkled gardens.