Having been shuttered for years, the Gök Medrese was nearing the end of an extensive restoration project on our last visit. Built in 1271 at the behest of Sahib-i Ata, the grand vizier or Sultan Giyasettin Keyhüsrev III, its exuberantly decorated marble portal, twin blue-tile and red-brick minarets (which were still covered in scaffolding while we were in town) and carved circular corner buttresses are a fabulous example of Seljuk-era architecture.

