Every night the city’s mariachi bands belt out heartfelt ballads in this festive square. Wearing silver-studded outfits, they toot their trumpets and tune their guitars until approached by someone who’ll pay for a song. Also roaming Garibaldi are white-clad son jarocho groups, hailing from Veracruz, and norteño combos, who bang out northern-style folk tunes.

The notoriously seedy Garibaldi has had a makeover that includes heightened security, but it’s still rough around the edges. The latest addition to the plaza is the Museo del Tequila y el Mezcal, which has exhibits explaining the origins and production processes of Mexico’s two most popular distilled agave drinks. The tour ends with a tasting on a rooftop bar overlooking the plaza. An on-site store sells some decent, albeit overpriced, tequilas and mezcals.