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Sensō-Ji

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Exterior of the Sensouji Temple.

Tokyo’s oldest temple, Sensō-ji (浅草寺) is to Tokyo as the Colosseum is to Rome – you simply have to see it. First constructed in the 7th century, the Buddhist temple enshrines Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy (hence why it’s also known as Asakusa Kannon-dō).

Step Through the Gates

Kaminari-mon is your gateway to the temple, and the first thing you’ll see as you approach Sensō-ji. At its center hangs a gigantic red chōchin (paper lantern), almost close enough to touch. Step right up to it to see an intricately carved dragon on its underside.

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Kaminari-mon (Thunder Gate) at Sensō-ji
View of the Kaminari-mon of Sensō-ji in Japan, Tokyo. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Flanking the doorway are statues of two deities: Fūjin, the God of Wind, and Raijin, the God of Thunder. Both are enshrined as protectors of the gate (against natural disasters). The original gate was built in 942 CE and has been rebuilt several times – the current gate dates back to 1960.

The Market Street

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View of Hōzō-mon at Sensō-ji from Nakamise-dōri, with a bank of paper lanterns on the left and cherry trees on the sides.
View of the Hōzō-mon at Sensō-ji from Nakamise-dōri in Japan, Tokyo. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Lining the way to the temple is Nakamise-dōri, comprised of shops and stalls selling fresh food and plenty of souvenirs and trinkets. The street is undeniably touristy, but it retains a long, proud history as one of Japan’s oldest shopping streets, dating back to the late 1600s.

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Sensō-ji-themed trinkets for sale
View of Sensō-ji-themed trinkets for sale near the temple in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Grabbing a senbei (rice cracker) or ningyō-yaki (pastries filled with sweet bean paste) freshly made on the spot is a quintessential part of a visit to Sensō-ji. However, you may want to save the souvenir shopping for when you’re on your way out, as many for sale here are quite similar.

The Main Hall

Crowds of people gather in the square in front of a red-roofed temple, Sensō-ji in Tokyo, Japan.
Crowds of people gathered at the Sensō-ji in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Breathe in the incense as you approach Kannon-dō, the main hall, then climb the steps and enter the worship area. If you’d like to make an offering, drop a coin into the wooden box at the top of the steps, put your hands together and bow once. Kannon-dō was originally built by the third shogun (former military ruler of Japan), Tokugawa Iemitsu, and was a designated National Treasure before it was destroyed during WWII air raids – the structure that stands today was rebuilt in 1958.

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Hōzō-mon at Sensō-ji
Painted red temple gate with ornate red, black, and gold lanterns
View of the Hōzō-mon at Sensō-ji in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

There is an altar in the temple’s outer sanctum, while the temple’s namesake, the Goddess Kannon, is enshrined within its inner sanctum (though the existence of her image within the temple is sometimes disputed).

Get Your Fortune Told

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People standing in front of an omikuji (fortune) display.
People standing in front of an omikuji (fortune) display at Sensō-ji in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

On New Year’s Day, drawing an omikuji – a written form of fortune telling – from the temple or shrine is a Japanese custom, though any time of year is a good time to find out what your fortune may be.

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An omikuji (fortune) at Sensō-ji. This is a kichi (good) fortune.
View of an omikuji (fortune) at Sensō-ji in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Just outside Kannon-dō and within the main hall, you’ll see silver canisters placed before shelves laden with tiny drawers. Drop ¥100 into the collection box, then give the silver canister a shake and flip it upside down so that a stick juts out of a hole at the bottom.

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Omikuji (fortunes) tied on metal rods at Sensō-ji
Omikuji (fortunes) tied on metal rods at Sensō-ji in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Note the character written on the stick, insert it back into the canister, and find the drawer with the corresponding character and open it – your fortune lies within. If your fortune is good, you may keep it. Otherwise, tie the slip of paper in a knot on a nearby rack to ward off the misfortune.

More Shrines & Temples

Asakusa, Sensoji Temple, Five-Storied Pagoda.
View of the Five-Storied Pagoda at Sensō-ji surrounded by cherry blossoms in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Outside the temple’s main hall is a Five-Storey Pagoda; the original structure was built in 942 CE along with the original Kaminari-mon, though the one that stands here now is a recreation following destruction during WWII. Once considered to be one of the city’s finest pagodas during the Edo period, it was an important landmark of Asakusa and appeared often in art at the time. The top story of the tower houses a Śarīra – a relic of the Buddha’s remains.

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Ceiling of Sensō-ji with a painting of a reclining Buddha holding a lotus
View of the ceiling of Sensō-ji, with a painting of a reclining Buddha holding a lotus, in Tokyo, Japan. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

Also within the compounds of Sensō-ji are smaller temples and shrines. Some, like the modest Yakushi-dō which sits across a small bridge, are original structures dating from the 17th century.

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