Described by Rudyard Kipling as "the work of goblins rather than of men," Bundi Palace (bundipalace.com; ₹600) is and extraordinary, decaying edifice that seems to grow out of the rock of the hillside it stands on. The palace was constructed during the reign of Rao Raja Ratan Singh (r 1607–31) and parts of the compound were occupied by the Bundi royals until 1948, when the palace was abandoned and taken over by bats and monkeys.
Tickets cover Bundi Palace, the Taragarh fortress and Kshar Bagh, and the palace is worth a few hours of exploring. Entering via the steep causeway climbing to the elephant-topped Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate), you'll reach a courtyard garden in front of the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience; also known as the Ratan Daulat), with its gleaming white marble coronation throne. Steps lead into the Chattar Mahal, added by Rao Raja Chhatra Shabji in 1644, with ivory-inlaid doors and some fine but weathered murals set in arched niches.
You'll pass balconies overlooking Nawal Sagar tank en route to the Phool Mahal, constructed in 1607, with an ornately decorated ceiling and some tremendous murals, including scenes from an immense royal procession. Beyond lies the late-16th-century Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace), with the palace's very best murals, including a wonderful ceiling inspired by the mihrabs (Mecca-facing niches) found in Mughal mosques.
The highest levels offer grand views over the old center of Bundi through windows screened by metal meshes and stone jalis (fretwork screens). As you descend through less-decorated chambers towards the exit, look for the original medieval latrine and the giant arch that once supported the royal swing.
Constructed in the 18th century by Rao Ummed Singh, the upper section of the palace is known as the Chitrasala (free), and it is administered separately by the Archaeological Survey of India.
The chambers behind the palace's pretty garden courtyard contain some of Bundi's best-preserved murals, depicting delightful scenes from the life of Krishna – look out for the playful deity hiding the clothes of the gopis (milkmaids).
The rear room to the right is the Sheesh Mahal, and its badly damaged interior still contains some beautiful glass inlay work, while its forechamber contains a fine image of Bundi in its 18th-century heyday. You'll also see plenty of murals of dueling elephants.
As the Chitrasala gates are closed at 5pm, monkeys reclaim the palace buildings and chirruping bats flap out from darkened chambers. Give them space – it's their palace now!
The palace is best explored with a local guide (₹700 half-day plus ₹100 for guide entry).
