This giant savusauna (smoke sauna) is a memorable, sociable experience. It seats 60 and is mixed: you're given towels to wear. Bring a swimsuit for lake dipping – devoted locals and brave tourists do so even when it’s covered with ice. Repeat the process several times. Then buy a beer and relax, looking out over the lake in Nordic peace.

The restaurant in the adjacent loggers’ cabin serves traditional Finnish dinners when the sauna is on, with accordion entertainment and a lumberjack show. Bus 7 (€3.30) heads to Rauhalahti hotel, from where it’s a 600m walk east. In summer, there are also cruises from Kupoio's harbour.