When you visit Vukovar today, it’s a challenge to visualise this town as the pretty town on the Danube it was before the war. Its streets were once rimmed with elegant baroque mansions, art galleries and museums, but all that changed with the siege of 1991, which destroyed its economy, culture, infrastructure, civic harmony and soul.
Since the return of Vukovar to Croatia in 1998, there has been much progress in repairing the damage. Today its two fantastic museums – the Vučedol Culture Museum and Castle Eltz – have restored some of the town's cultural sheen and are well worth the trip south to visit. Many pock-marked and blasted facades remain though, and the former water tower on the road to Ilok has been left as a testament to the destruction.