Located at the western end of the island of Mljet, forest-shrouded Mljet National Park is one of the most seductive of all of the Adriatic islands. The national park protects a large chunk of the island's land, but the rest of the island is rugged, green and anything but overrun. Visitors are almost entirely drawn to the tourist enclave around Pomena, leaving the rest of the island deliciously unspoilt.
Park Hubs
Mljet National Park spreads over 54 sq km, enfolding five villages and 300km of hiking and cycling trails. The main hubs of the park are the small villages of Pomena and Polače, which are packed with visitors on summer days but quieten down again once all the boats leave. Kiosks in both villages sell park admission tickets. From Pomena, it's a 400m walk along a forested path to the park's Malo Jezero (Little Lake); from Polače, it takes 40 minutes to walk to Veliko Jezero (Great Lake).
If you're driving, the main car park is at Vrbovica near Veliko Jezero. From May until mid September, the park ticket includes a ride on an electric train from Vrbovica to a pier where boats depart for Sveti Marija island.
Malo Jezero & Veliko Jezero
Forest-fringed Malo Jezero and Veliko Jezero are connected to each other by a short channel. Veliko Jezero (the larger lake) then empties into the sea via the much longer Soline Canal, which makes the lakes subject to tidal flows.
The monks from the nearby island of Sveta Marija deepened and widened the channel between the lakes, building a mill to take advantage of the rush of sea water as the tide rose and fell. The mill is long gone and the channel is now spanned by a bridge. The area around Mali Most (Little Bridge) near Malo Jezero is the busiest swimming spot in the national park. It's a lovely place for a dip, but we suggest that you stroll along the shore of the lake until you find a quiet nook of your own.
You can walk around the entirety of Malo Jezero, but not Veliko Jezero, as there's no bridge over the Soline Channel. If you decide to swim the channel, keep in mind that the current can be strong.
Sveta Marija
Not far from the southern shore of Veliko Jezero is tiny Sveta Marija (St Mary). Boats (included in the park admission price) head here at least hourly during park opening hours, departing from both Mali Most and another pier south of Vrbovica.
The island monastery was founded in 1198 and was in operation until 1809, when it was closed by the French administration following the Napoleonic conquest. The Benedictine order effectively ruled Mljet from here until 1410, when the island was formally annexed by the Republic of Ragusa.
The complex includes a large church, a couple of tiny chapels, stables with a resident donkey and a restaurant in the basement of the monks' former living quarters. At the center of the island, the ruins of a Roman structure can be seen.
Polače
The blissful position of the tiny fishing village of Polače, on a sheltered inlet, has made it a desirable location since ancient times. The village is less glitzy than its neighbor, Pomena, with a more lived-in feel despite the seasonal tourist influx.
At the time of the Roman conquest in 35 BCE, the island was populated by the Illyrians, who erected hill forts and traded with the mainland. The Romans expanded the settlement around Polače, eventually building a palace complete with baths and servants’ quarters.
It's hard to miss the high, hulking walls of the Roman Palace on the Polače waterfront; the structure is so large that a road was built right through the center of it. Constructed around the 5th century, this residential complex has defensive towers on its front corners, separated by a pier. From here, you can take a short loop walk to the ruins of two Roman-era Christian basilicas, the latter of which sits in a field of wildflowers.
Exploring the Island of Mljet
It's well worth venturing outside the national park to explore the rest of Mljet.
East of the main ferry port at Sobra is Prožurska Luka, an attractive seaside village facing a bay dotted with islands. A scenic coastal road connects it to gorgeous Okuklje, a single row of houses clinging to an almost-circular bay ringed by green hills. There's not a lot to do here apart from relax with a book, take a dip in the harbor and walk up to tiny St Nicholas' Church for the views over the bay.
At Mljet's very eastern tip, the teensy village of Saplunara feels sublimely isolated, despite the views towards the bright lights of Dubrovnik. The main drawcards here are an excellent traditional restaurant, Stermasi (stermasi.hr), and a trio of sandy beaches. If you're tempted to stop at the first (Velika Saplunara) or second beach (Mala Saplunara), resist the urge and continue to the third (Plaža Limuni) – the water is shallow, but this semicircular cove boasts the most beautiful beach on the island.
If you fancy a hike to an unusual swimming spot, park near the Tommy supermarket at Babino Polje and trek down to Odysseus Cave. It takes around 30 minutes, and the track is steep and rough at the end, but you'll eventually reach a water-filled chasm that connects to a sea cave. In the right conditions, the interior is bathed in an otherworldly blue light.
