How we planned and executed a cheeky little vacation in Goa during these trying times
Jan 4, 2021
9 MIN READ
Writer
It might have a faraway feel, but Butterfly Island is actually part of the Indian mainland. Puneet Vikram Singh / Getty Images
Writer
Let's face it, while the idea of a holiday fills you with joy, the actual planning and execution can, in all likelihood, give you heartburn. And at times like these, not only do you have to convince yourself that all will be well and everything will be fine, you will also have to convince everyone around you that you are 'hopefully' going to be okay and this is something you need for your sanity.
First up, booking the hotel. This was planned very much in advance, and the reasoning behind booking a relatively high-end hotel- Taj Hotel & Convention Centre in Panaji/Panjim was that there would be absolutely no doubt in our mind about the safety precautions they would take to ensure everything is sanitized and safe. And while I will get into an in-depth review of the fabulous property a little later, let's just say, we were not at all disappointed.
Next, much closer to the travel date, we bought our flight tickets. We did this intentionally so that we could gauge the situation before we book. We were contemplating booking directly from the airline website so that should there be a surge in cases, it would be easier to get a refund perhaps or defer the travel date directly through the airline as opposed to via third parties. We also opted to buy the food/snacks in advance to avoid unnecessary card or cash transactions.
Air Travel Experience
Cut to the actual day we travelled. While the flight was at 11 am, the domestic check-in time has been extended to two hours before departure, which we actually preferred as things were pretty much smooth sailing at the check-in. Plus, we were not rushed and filled with the anxiety of missing our flight, as we usually are.
Once we had deposited our luggage and checked in, we had enough time for a quick bite because everyone knows that you never ever put on weight when you are on vacation. I wouldn't say that the airport was empty, but it wasn't packed to the degree of feeling uncomfortable either. Needless to say, 'most' people were cautious with face masks on all the time, and all the shops and food joints had hand sanitisers placed in multiple locations as is now the norm.
While boarding, we were given a package with a face shield, a hand sanitiser, and a face mask. Plus, if a person is seated in the middle seat, he/she will be given a cover-up overall to wear.
Accommodation
Now, for the fun part. As mentioned earlier, we opted to stay at the Taj Hotel & Convention Centre, where we got a sweet deal that included stay plus all meals! Upon entering the massive lobby, we were greeted by some wonderful hosts who were so kind and gracious, and I suppose it is this personal attention that nudges hotels like Taj to the top.
While we were to stay in the standard room, we were kindly upgraded to the sea-facing deluxe room, and words cannot explain how spectacular the room and the view was. Fitted with all the mod-cons and then some, the room door opened up to a supremely spacious open concept bath area with a massive open bathtub, a separate shower, and toilet enclosure. Next, you walk into the pièce de résistance, the large room with a glass wall facing the ocean (the fancy curtains and sheer automatically open when you open the main door). We were guided to the room by Siddharth, who patiently waited for me to gather myself and stop shrieking so that he could explain the room's unique properties. With all the fancy gadgets and switches, you need someone to show you the works. Once that was done, it was time for some grub, and the food, oh, the food, was unbelievably delicious, particularly the cheesecake. And this was just day one. We continued stuffing ourselves with all the brilliant delights for seven days!
Places we visited
Through all this rambling, I'm sure what you really want to know was whether travelling in Goa is safe during COVID. While 'safe' is a relative term, we made sure we took care of ourselves by wearing our masks all the time, sanitizing our hands religiously, and visiting secluded beaches and restaurants, of which there were many. We highly recommend scoping out South Goa that is dotted with fantastic beaches sans the crowds. However, please note, if you are looking for the beach shack experience, you will have to head to North Goa.
Restaurants and pubs:
Panaji
Since our hotel was conveniently located in Panaji, we had plenty of choices. We went to the following during this trip:
Ritz Classic Patto: An old favourite for seafood and classic Goan dishes, we were sadly a little disappointed this time around. While the food was decent, it certainly wasn't as mind-blowing as before. But perhaps it was just a one-off, so do visit if you are in the neighbourhood.
Joseph Bar: An article I read recommended this place, and it certainly did not disappoint. This tiny little bar has the sweetest host called Gundu who is apparently quite a legend. He gave me a flower. Enough said. Sit in the itsy-bitsy balcony with a drink and soak in the classic Panaji aura - the gorgeous colourful houses and shops that exude the comforting feeling that eventually all will be well.
Viva Panjim: Located in a tiny alley, Viva Panjim was new to us, and we decided to try out their Feni cocktails, which were really quite good. However, we mistakenly did not check with the waiter before ordering, and the dishes we ordered were quite sweet. Yet, I'm sure if we had been smart and ordered correctly, I’m sure the food would have been pretty good.
Panjim Inn Hotel: This is a Panjim staple. The atmospheric balcony area is the perfect place for a quick drink and snacks.
South Goa
Martin's Corner, Betalbatim: This cheerful establishment encapsulates all the Goan vibes. The decor, the food, the music, the staff, everything here makes you happy. The seafood here is delicious, and the cocktails superb. It's the kind of place you would ideally wear your floral shirt and straw hat and dance the night away to classic Goan tunes.
The Fisherman's Wharf, Cavelossim: This delightful restaurant is situated on the banks of the River Sal, and the outdoor seating area is just perfect for you to sit back, tuck into some fantastic food, and sip your cocktail. The food here is quite good, and the fish is as fresh as it can get. The waiters are knowledgeable and are more than happy to accommodate you should you wish to add tweaks to your dish.
North Goa
Curlies, Anjuna Beach: While we have gone to many, many shacks and restaurants in North Goa on our previous Goa vacations, this time around, we limited it to only Curlies for a fundamental reason. According to us, there are few other 'beach shacks' that have the perfect blend of a superb view of the ocean along with a decent offering of food and beverages. Sure, some would scoff at the thought of going to Curlies, mainly because of the bad rep it may have received for some isolated incidents, but we feel that this place warrants a visit particularly for catching the sunset.
Mahé Goa, Anjuna: This superb restaurant serves some fabulous Goan dishes with a modern twist. The ambience is wonderful, and the location is perfect, especially if you are heading back from Curlies and want to go someplace a little fancier for a meal.
Getting Around:
GOAMILES: Travelling within Goa has always been a bit of an issue. Earlier, the only option available was to hire a bike or car for the entire day, and the cost was quite steep. However, now you can book a cab from the main hotspots relatively easily with the GOAMILES app. Booking a taxi via the app is recommended only if you are not travelling too far. If you plan to travel to the less busy and father off places, it makes more sense to hire a self-driving car as it will be cheaper and you won't find yourself in a situation where you are stranded, especially since the coverage of cabs is not great.
Hire a bike/car: This is our preferred way of getting around, especially if you are, as mentioned above, travelling to far off relatively secluded places. Another advantage, of course, is that it is a safer option to get around during these times.
Shopping:
This year, unlike most years, I did not indulge in a whole lot of shopping. But there are a few things I always pick up when I go to Goa because either they are better quality, cheaper, or not readily available elsewhere.
Alcohol: Goa is a great place to pick up some premium Indian make alcohol mostly because the distilleries are situated in Goa. Toms Wine & Liquor shop, again in Panaji, has an excellent variety on offer.
Nuts and spices: There are a plethora of wholesale establishments from where you can pick up all your favourite items at a fraction of the price.
Coconut oil: If you happen to be heading to South Goa, you will spot small street vendors selling jackfruit and coconut oil. I highly recommend you pick up the coconut oil from them (they are packaged in plastic cold drink or alcohol bottles, so pack it carefully). I have been using it as hair oil for years, and I genuinely believe no store-bought coconut oil can compare.
Cookies and more: I am a sucker for all things sweet and snacky, and Goa has an excellent variety of old-school and modern cookies, cakes, and snacks on offer. Do check out Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro and Global to Local, both in Panjim, for some tasty delights.
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