"Heated Rivalry" put Muskoka on the map: here is how to spend 4 days at this lakeside retreat

Growing up in Arkansas, I was no stranger to lake life. My childhood summers were filled with tubing on pontoons, hiking to swimming holes, kayaking through cliffs and napping on docks in the late afternoon. That’s the quintessential Southern summer if you ask me. So I jumped at the opportunity when Destination Canada invited me to experience how Canadians do lakes in Ontario’s cottage country (Heated Rivalry fans know what I am talking about): Muskoka.

Less than 3 hours north of Toronto, this lakes region feels like a breath of fresh air. As our van drove past glistening lakes and tall pine trees, I could feel myself starting to relax. Use my 4-day itinerary to dive into Canadian lake life around Muskoka.

• When to arrive: For an extra long weekend, arrive in Toronto on a Wednesday morning. This will give you plenty of time to get to Muskoka. 

• How to get from the airport: If you decide to spend some time in Toronto, rideshares from the airport will deliver you to the city. There's also the UP Express Train and TTC buses. My recommendation is to grab a rental car at the airport and head right to Muskoka.

• Getting around town: Renting a car to explore the region is definitely recommended. While rideshares are available in some of the larger towns, drivers are scarce, especially if you’re venturing deep into forested areas. 

• Where to stay: Deerhurst Resort and JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka are two great home bases. Both are nestled on the shores of two of Muskoka's lakes, with amenities like docks and canoes to immerse you into lake life. And for my fellow Heated Rivalry fans, you can try to snag a stay at The Cottage.

• What to pack: Muskoka’s summer days are hot, and the nights can be chillier by the water, so throw something with coverage into your suitcase, especially if you’re prone to mosquito bites (if that’s you, also make sure to load up on bug spray). You’d be silly to not take advantage of the water, so a swimsuit is a must.

Day 1 

Morning

You likely have a drive ahead of you, so fuel up on coffee and breakfast on your way to Muskoka so that you’re ready to go upon arrival. 

How to spend the day

There’s no better way to spend a day than out on the water. At 11:30am, you can embark on the historic Wenonah steamship. Stop by the bar for a local brew or wine first, then grab a seat on the top deck for ultimate sun exposure. For the next 2-plus hours, you’ll make your way around Lake Muskoka, passing lakefront cottages, lighthouses and small islands. (You’ll need to book this trip in advance.)

After basking in the sun, you’ll probably be ready for some grub. About a 15-minute walk away from the dock is Sawdust City Brewing Co, where you can dig in to poutine, smashburgers, and fish and chips on a sunny patio. It also has an extensive list of craft beers to pair with your lunch. For a lighter bite, try Relish down the street. A market, deli and cafe, it has a rotating menu of wraps, bowls, salads, smoothies and baked goods. 

To get a bit of history and learn about the area, pop over to the Muskoka Discover Centre. The Misko-Aki: Confluence of Cultures exhibit provides insight into the local Indigenous communities, their connection to the land and how that defines the region today. 

Head to your hotel to check in, and have some downtime before dinner.

Dinner

For hearty Mexican food, go to El Pueblito in Bracebridge. Settle in for its daily ceviche, stuffed burritos and a margarita to top it all off. It doesn’t accept reservations and is closed Sundays and Mondays. 

Day 2 

Morning

For convenience, have a hotel breakfast of whatever your heart desires. Or stop at Henrietta’s Pine Bakery for some freshly baked goodies, like Canada’s famous butter tarts, croissants, quiche and sausage rolls. It has locations in Dwight and Huntsville but is closed on Sundays and Mondays.

How to spend the day 

You’re getting right back on the water this morning, so don’t forget your sunscreen. Algonquin Outfitters, located in Algonquin Provincial Park, does canoe rentals and guided tours ranging from a few hours to a 10-day camping and canoeing experience. For a nice morning paddle, try the Ragged Falls Paddling Experience on Oxtongue Lake, where you’ll make your way via canoe, kayak or paddleboard to a beautiful waterfall. Hike up and relax at the top. You could even pack a picnic for lunch with a view. 

If you’d rather a restaurant for lunch, drive approximately 30 minutes to Huntsville and grab a table at On the Docks. This outdoor pub overlooks the Peconic River and has an extensive menu, featuring items like tacos, burgers, sandwiches and salads. I got a chicken Caesar salad sandwich and devoured it quite quickly. 

Walk off lunch by wandering around the town. Be sure to keep an eye out for the murals that decorate many of the walls; these are part of a project called the Group of Seven Outdoor Gallery. The artists who made up the Group of Seven painted works heavily inspired by the region's natural landscape, and their work is now displayed throughout the town. 

Dinner

I hope you’re hungry! This was one of my favorite meals of my trip. Tall Trees is tucked inside a cozy house. This place ticked all the boxes for me: lovely atmosphere, great service and delicious food. You absolutely have to order its signature seared scallops appetizer, served over a potato rösti and topped with bacon jam. I easily could have devoured 10 of these. For a main dish, the artisanal spanakopita cavatelli was indulgent and delicious. One of my favorite pastries turned into pasta – how could I resist?

Day 3 

Morning

Enjoy a slow morning. Sip coffee while overlooking the water at your hotel, or stop by Downtown Espresso, a cabinlike cafe in Huntsville known for Italian-style coffee and cornettos. 

How to spend the day 

The first stop of the day is Hardy Lake Provincial Park, which has multiple hiking trails of varying lengths. Take in the gorgeous views, including a wooden boardwalk that takes you out to a little island, and spend your morning wandering at your preferred pace.

Next, make your way to Muskoka Brewery's taproom. It has plenty of outdoor space to soak up the sunshine while sipping its brews, crafted right there in Muskoka. The Detour IPA and Tread Lightly lager were my personal faves. There's a food truck on-site, Creative Plate Eatery, which serves made-from-scratch dishes like fried chicken sandwiches, artichoke dip and the cheesiest mozzarella sticks I’ve ever had. 

Dinner

Check out Lamorna this evening. It’s a farm-to-table restaurant whose dishes flow with local products, such as roasted eggplant and arctic char. The menu often changes based on what’s fresh and in stock.

After dark

You’re lucky enough to be near a Dark Sky Reserve, so take advantage of it in the Torrance Barrens. Bring some chairs or a picnic blanket, and watch the Milky Way unfold before you. It’s wise to check the weather, as forecasts such as a full moon or cloudy skies affect visibility. 

Day 4 

Morning

Have a relaxing breakfast at Jack & Stella, a casual cafe in Bala with lakefront seating. Grab your coffee of choice; pair it with a bagel breakfast sandwich, smoothie or baked goods; and take a seat on the dock. It also serves sandwiches, like the Stella, which comes with mozzarella, arugula, tomato, pickled onions, pesto and balsamic glaze, starting at 8am.

How to spend the day 

Spend the afternoon at Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery, touring the cranberry bog and tasting various fruit wines, ciders and spritzes. My favorite was the Muskoka Red, made entirely from blueberries. I’m not normally a fruit wine kind of gal, but this one was lovely.

Get a seat on Turtle Jack’s patio for lunch, located right on the water in Port Carling. The extensive menu has everything from house-made Turtle Wings (no, they are not actually made from turtles) to blackened basa tacos and sirloin steak. I opted for the fish and chips.

Dinner

For your last meal, try out The Pearl in Bala. Its patio is small, so I recommend making a reservation. Every dish I had here was delicious and came across far more elevated than the casual, coffee shop appearance of the building. The stars of the show were the grilled Australian Wagyu, which melts in your mouth, and Mo’s handmade dumplings, based on a Nepali dish that the chef grew up eating. The cocktails are great too.

Rhianydd traveled to Muskoka at the invitation of Destination Canada. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

All photos by Rhianydd Hylton.