Islas Ballestas

Although grandiosely nicknamed the 'poor man's Galapagos,' the Islas Ballestas make for a memorable excursion. The only way to get there is with a boat tour, offered by many travel agencies. None of the small boats have a cabin, so dress to protect against the wind, spray and sun. The sea can get rough, so sufferers of motion sickness should take medication before boarding.

Wear a hat (cheap ones are sold at the harbor), as it's not unusual to receive a direct hit of guano (droppings) from the seabirds.

On the outward boat journey, which takes about 1½ hours, you can't miss the famous three-pronged Candelabra geoglyph, a giant figure etched into the sandy hills, which is over 150m high and 50m wide. No one knows exactly who made the geoglyph, or when, or what it signifies, but theories abound. Some connect it to the Nazca Lines, while others propound that it served as a navigational guide for ancient sailors and was based on the constellation of the Southern Cross. Some even believe it to have been inspired by a local cactus species with hallucinogenic properties.

An hour is spent cruising around the islands' arches and caves, watching large herds of noisy sea lions sprawl on the rocks. The most common guano-producing birds in this area are the guanay cormorant, the Peruvian booby and the Peruvian pelican, seen in colonies of several thousand strong. You'll also see pelicans, cormorants, Humboldt penguins and, if your luck is in, dolphins.

Although you can get close enough to the wildlife for a good look, some species, especially the penguins, are more visible with binoculars. On your return trip, ask to see the Chilean flamingos, which are usually found in the southern part of the bay and not on the direct boat route. The flamingos aren't always there, however - the best time is June to August.

Back on shore, a minibus whisks tour groups back to Pisco in time for lunch, or you can continue on a tour of the Reserva Nacional de Paracas. If you decide to grab a bite to eat at the waterfront shacks in Paracas, you can take a combi back to Pisco later.