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While Away an Afternoon on Brooklyn’s Waterfront

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New York City, NY.

Jaw-dropping views, recreational activities, alfresco eateries, plus stores and performance spaces: Brooklyn Bridge Park is a one-stop shop for urban leisure. Devote half a day to this 85-acre green space hugging the East River – a sprawling backyard for trendy Dumbo and photogenic Brooklyn Heights.

Historic Beginnings

For a breezy introduction to Brooklyn’s historic waterfront, hop on a Manhattan ferry at Midtown’s 34th St or FiDis Pier 11, then sail across the river like writer Walt Whitman in the 19th century. You’ll dock at Fulton Ferry Landing, where lines from his 1856 poem "Crossing the Brooklyn Ferry" are engraved on the guard rails.

Like so much of NYC, this landscape differs greatly from when Whitman wrote his poem. In the coming decades, the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges became Big Apple landlines. Red brick buildings shot up along the waterfront, home to companies that manufactured goods like cardboard boxes and Brillo pads. Commercial production didn’t last long: by the 1970s, businesses left and the waterfront became a wasteland. Industrial facades, cobblestone streets and antique railroad tracks remain, but the waterfront is otherwise transformed – a triumph of urban renewal.

Families having fun at the famous Jane's Carousel in Brooklyn Bridge Park. Brooklyn, New York.
Families having fun at the famous Jane's Carousel in Brooklyn Bridge Park. Brooklyn, New York. Resul Muslu/Shutterstock

Dizzying Views

Venture north of Fulton Ferry Landing for an East River panorama that inspires romance (there always seem to be newlyweds taking pictures here). For 360-degree views, spin around Jane’s Carousel – a vintage treasure from 1922 housed in a Pritzker Prize–winning acrylic box. It’s come a long way since its days at an Ohio amusement park, with its 48 carved horses, two chariots and 1200 dazzling lights. With gold leaf on the horses, delicate pinstriping done freehand by a Mercedes-Benz detailer and a color palette closely matching the 1922 original, it has more than earned its spot on the National Register of Historic Places.

Behind the carousel is Empire Stores, which houses the Time Out Market (a collection of bustling food stalls and bars), plus a selection of retail chains. For epic Brooklyn Bridge views backed by FiDi’s skyline, head to Time Out Market’s 5th-floor terrace or nearby Pebble Beach.

Pier Party

Crowds thin out south of Fulton Ferry, starting with Pier 1 – a collection of green carpets stitched together by meandering footpaths. Basketball and soccer games often bounce around Piers 2 and 5, respectively. From June through September, Brooklyn Bridge Park Boathouse volunteers hang out at Pier 2, offering free 20-minute kayaking sessions (reservations required, bbpboathouse.org). Sparrows and starlings flap around Pier 3, with its leafy esplanade and picnic-perfect meadow. Cormorants and ducks paddle around Pier 4 – a sandy strip lapped by waves.

Foot traffic picks back up around Pier 6, particularly in summer when outdoor eating options abound. If you want something sweet, grab a scoop of ice cream from OddFellows (Pier 5) and find a river-facing bench to soak up the sunset. At Fornino at Pier 6, you can savor wood-fired pizza, sandwiches and drinks at communal picnic tables. Expect a splashier setting at Pilot – a moored wooden schooner where sun-kissed passengers slurp oysters and cocktails from May to October. The food here is fine, but the FiDi and East River views are exceptional.

Washington Street and the Manhattan Bridge, in DUMBO, Brooklyn, New York City.
Washington Street and the Manhattan Bridge, in DUMBO, Brooklyn, New York City. Jon Bilous/Shutterstock

Dumbo Detour

Dumbo (an acronym for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) anchors the park’s northern stretches – a 25-block dreamscape for shopping and dining. The best time for exploration is on Sundays between April and December, when the Brooklyn Flea takes over 80 Pearl St. Vendors hawk their merchandise under a giant Manhattan Bridge archway, selling everything from antiques and vintage clothes to self-sustaining terrariums, sculptural beeswax candles and handcrafted NYC-made leather goods. Don’t expect to uncover many bargains – shopping here is expensive, like everything else in this city – but if you go early or late to avoid the crowds, it’s a fun place to browse for an hour or two.

While in the neighborhood, poke your head into Hudson Wilder, a slick design shop, and Front General Store, where shelves overflow with vintage workwear, jewelry and stationery.

Many restaurants in Dumbo can feel like tourist traps (expensive, mediocre), but there are still a few worth trying. Top-dollar restaurants Celestine (Mediterranean) and River Cafe (American) practically kiss the water – and the ambiance is worth the splurge. Em Vietnamese Bistro is less expensive but just as tasty, with steaming pho suitable for a winter’s day. Butler Bakeshop is more laid back, with breakfast sandwiches and pastries, and at Evil Twin Brewing, you can grab a coffee or craft beer in the spacious interior.

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