One of the highlights of northeast Kyoto, the superb Shūgaku-in Rikyū Imperial Villa (修学院離宮; kyoto-gosho.kunaicho.go.jp/en; only with reservation) was designed as a lavish summer retreat for the imperial family. Its sprawling gardens, with their views down over the city, are worth the trouble it takes to visit.
Construction of the villa was begun in the 1650s by Emperor Go-Mizunō, following his abdication. Work was continued by his daughter Akeno-miya after his death in 1680. The villa grounds are divided into three enormous garden areas on a hillside: lower, middle and upper. Each has a superb tea-ceremony house: the upper, Kami-no-chaya, and lower, Shimo-no-chaya, were completed in 1659, and the middle teahouse, Naka-no-chaya, was completed in 1682. The gardens’ reputation rests on their ponds, pathways and impressive use of shakkei (borrowed scenery) in the form of the surrounding hills. The view from Kami-no-chaya is particularly impressive.
Reserve as far in advance as possible online or by visiting the Imperial Household Agency office inside the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park, for a one-hour tour in Japanese, with English audio guides provided free of charge – you cannot wander around freely and must bring ID. Same-day tickets (for afternoon tours only) go on sale at the villa from 11am and are available on a first-come, first-served basis.
