Museo Nazionale degli Strumenti

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This little-known museum behind the church of Santa Croce stands on the site of the former home of St Helena. It’s undeservedly but refreshingly deserted, with a collection of over 3000 exquisite musical instruments that includes gorgeously painted, handle-operated 18th-century Neapolitan street pianos, and one of the oldest known pianos (1722).

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