Among Thais, Mukdahan is most famous for this riverside market, which stretches along and under the promenade. Most Thai tour groups on their way to Laos and Vietnam make a shopping stop for cheap food, clothing and assorted trinkets – much of it from China and Vietnam – plus silk and cotton fabrics made in Isan. A massive renovation project, with little sign of completion, has meant the market has had to trade from temporary street-side stalls for more than two years.

