The Gothic Church of St James (praha.minorite.cz) holds lots of surprises. The first is its size. From the outside, this 14th-century church looks deceptively small. It’s only on the inside where its true girth takes shape. St James started out as a Minorite monastery and got a baroque facelift in the 18th century. In the midst of the gilt and stucco, the interior holds another surprising find. On the western wall (look right as you enter) hangs a shriveled human arm. Legend claims that when a thief tried to steal the jewels from the statue of the Virgin, the Virgin grabbed his wrist in an iron grip and his arm had to be lopped off. (The truth may not be far behind: the church was a favorite of the guild of butchers, who may have administered their own justice.)
Pride of place inside goes to the over-the-top tomb of Count Jan Vratislav of Mitrovice, an 18th-century lord chancellor of Bohemia, found in the northern aisle. It’s well worth a visit to enjoy St James’ splendid pipe organ and famous acoustics. Recitals – free at 10.30am or 11am after Sunday Mass – and occasional concerts are not always advertised by ticket agencies, so check the website under "Koncerty/Sbor."
