You haven't 'done' Kinsale till you've done Scilly Walk, a lovely coastal trail that leads out to Charles Fort. Follow Lower Rd to the Spaniard Bar, descend to the waterfront and follow the harbourside path until it climbs to join High Rd. Descend to the Bulman Bar for a pint before climbing up to the fort. Return along High Rd – this is Kinsale's 'Golden Mile', lined with millionaires' holiday homes and superb views over the harbour (round trip 6km).