Dating from 1843, tasteful Tivoli wins fans with its dreamy whirl of amusement rides, twinkling pavilions, carnival games and open-air stage shows. Visitors can ride the renovated, century-old roller-coaster, enjoy the famous Saturday evening fireworks display or just soak up the storybook atmosphere. A good tip is to go Fridays during the summer season when the open-air Plænen stage hosts free rock concerts by Danish bands (and the occasional international superstar) from 10pm – go early if it's a big-name act.

Indeed, Tivoli is at its most romantic after dusk, when the fairy lights are switched on, cultural activities unfold and the clock tower of the neighbouring Rådhus soars in the moonlight like the set of a classic Disney film.

Each of Tivoli's numerous entertainment venues has a different character. Perhaps best known is the open-air pantomime theatre, built in 1874 by Vilhelm Dahlerup, the Copenhagen architect who also designed the royal theatre. Tivoli's large concert hall features performances by international symphony orchestras and ballet troupes, as well as popular musicians. While the numerous open-air performances are free of charge, there's usually an admission fee for the indoor performances – check the website for venue details, line-ups and prices.

Amusement ride tickets cost Dkr25 (some rides require up to three tickets), making the multiride ticket (Dkr220) better value in most cases.

Outside the main summer season, Tivoli also opens for around three weeks around Halloween and from mid-November to early January for Christmas. For up-to-date opening times, see the Tivoli website. Also note that three times a year the park closes for a week to prepare for the next season.