Hop on a tram bound for North Point, and past Fortress Hill you’ll turn into a narrow street teeming with market stalls and old tenement buildings. This is the famous Chun Yeung Street Market, and at 5pm it’s so busy the tram has to squeeze between traders and cart-pullers. Many stores here sell foodstuffs from Fújiàn that you can't find elsewhere in Hong Kong. North Point has a huge Fújiànese community and you’ll hear their dialect spoken on Chun Yeung St.
As the tram turns the corner into King’s Rd, you’ll pass the nondescript Wah Fung Chinese Goods Centre. Once Hong Kong’s largest Chinese department store, the building it's in, Kiu Kwan Mansion (僑冠大廈), served as a hideout for underground communists during the 1967 riots.