Plan a Trip to Croatia's Underrated Wine Country

In early September, I was lucky enough to catch the tail end of Croatia’s glorious summer and spent about a week exploring this beautiful nation, venturing far beyond the famously beloved Adriatic coastline.

Rather than lounging on the beach, my Croatian adventure was all about the flavorful and delicate wines produced in the Međimurje region. I walked through vineyards, sampled countless wines, and reveled in the history and flavors that I kept discovering.

The trip was active and fast-paced, but it also offered quiet moments among the grapes; treats to savor. A visit so spectacular that I believe everyone should know about it. 

Getting There

I took a red-eye flight from New York City on United Airlines, which was my very first time in business class; it was one of the most exciting travel experiences. The highlight, beyond the lie-flat seats, was the sundae cart after dinner. This also allowed me to get a decent amount of sleep – upon arrival in Croatia, I immediately hit the ground running. 

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Meet the Region

Head to Međimurje County, an expansive region known for its rolling hills and vineyards as far as the eye can see. The northernmost and smallest county in Croatia, Međimurje is filled with family-run vineyards and boasts an impressive food scene. Whether you explore by bike or car, this area, often referred to as the garden region, is off the beaten path, but bursting with potential. 

Choose Your Accommodations

I stayed at a few different hotels during my time exploring the wine country, but each experience was stunning and provided on-site access to lovely vineyards and excellent wine. 

First was Hotel Terbotz, a lovely spot on a vineyard with an impressive restaurant on the grounds. With rooms offering gorgeous views of the rolling hills and an on-site wellness center, you can happily spend a few days here. 

Another great option is the picturesque Vuglec Breg, a hillside estate that combines a fabulous restaurant, beautiful views and charming cabin stays. This is a more rustic option, but still has access to a hilltop pool and stunning grounds. 

If you prefer a city base that allows you to explore the wineries on day trips, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel is a truly impressive option in the heart of the country’s capital. 

Choose Your Vineyards

It is hard to go wrong in this region, but these wineries and distilleries were impressive, inventive and had impeccable attention to detail.

Lovrec Winery

This is a six-generation family-run organic vineyard. During my visit, we took a tour of the grounds, which included a stop at their 16th-century wine cellar, before enjoying a tasting. We made our way through six wines, the Sauvignon Blanc being the most impressive; it is one of the most commonly grown grapes in Međimurje County. 

Brigljevic Distillery

An intimate experience at a family-owned craft distillery. Inspired by Croatian, French and Scottish distilling processes, the flavors are both inventive and uniquely Croatian. We tasted their craft-aged brandies, gin and whiskey. 

Korak Winery

Located atop a hill overlooking the vineyards, Korak is a dreamy oasis. We enjoyed a tour of the cellar at this family-run winery and some of the best wine we had on this entire trip. The location is stunning, and their restaurant, which offers a tasting menu with wine pairings, was a particular highlight. Especially when we met the chef, who was the brother of the woman running the wine program. 

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Beyond Wine

While the wine is obviously the main draw to this region, there are plenty of historical sites and activities beyond the grape. 

Mađerkin Breg

Part lookout, part sculpture, this hilltop structure overlooks the iconic terraced vineyards. Catching the sunset here was truly special and showcased the lush and expansive landscape.

The Mura River

This river significantly influences the way of life in this region. We stopped by the Mill on the Mura, a traditional wooden floating mill, to learn the process of flourmaking and enjoy the quiet rush of the river. There is also a cafe nearby, Mlinarska kuća, a charming riverside spot where you can enjoy a cappuccino in serene surroundings.

Zrinski Old Town

Here, we walked through the historic castle and fortress of Čakovec, dating back to the 13th century. The on-site museum provides a wonderful insight into the history and heritage of the area.

Štrukli Cooking Class

During our stay at Vuglec Breg, we took a cooking class with their local chef, who taught us the intricate art of making Štrukli, a regional dish made from stretched dough filled with cottage cheese and sour cream, rolled into logs, then baked. Learning from one of the best Štrukli chefs in the region was an eye-opening experience. 

Neanderthal Museum in Krapina

In the early 20th century, Dragutin Gorjanović-Kramberger discovered human remains in the area that date back to the neanderthal era. Your visit to the museum starts with a short film depicting Neanderthal life, before you explore the galleries, which trace human history and the eras before and after the Neanderthal period.  

Taste the Flavors of Croatia

Wine and food go hand in hand, so opting for restaurants that pay just as much attention to the wine selection as the ingredients on the plate was essential. 

Bistro Beška

A local restaurant that has been around since 1966, this bistro started as an inn before evolving into a Croatian spot with traditional ingredients and modern flair. We enjoyed an eight-course tasting dinner with an expansive wine pairing, the perfect introduction to the cuisine of the Međimurje region. Highlights included tempura green beans with a local berry sauce, a light, crispy sea bass, and deer tartare.

Mala Hiža

This Michelin Guide-recommended restaurant served one of my favorite meals of the whole trip. The food was hearty and flavorful but completely unpretentious, despite the elegant surroundings. We began with a light vegetable and noodle soup, followed by a pork cutlet with pumpkin seeds, crispy potatoes, and chicken filled with herbs and cheese. Dessert was pumpkin seed ice cream, a regional staple. 

Vuglec Breg

The restaurant on the grounds of the vineyard served up a truly showstopping meal. We tried Purica s mlincima – roasted turkey and mlinci flatbread noodles soaked in the turkey's runoff juices. It was so delicious that I instantly asked for the recipe to cook for Thanksgiving. For dessert, we enjoyed the Štrukli we made, drizzled with local honey. 

Mon Ami Restaurant

Truffles are popular in this area of the world; in fact, you can even go truffle hunting in the nearby forests. To celebrate this local bounty, Mon Ami crafted a truffle-focused menu for us, which consisted of truffle-dusted pâté, followed by truffle pasta and a perfectly cooked steak. 

Korak Restaurant

Over eight courses and a gorgeous wine pairing, I was truly floored by my experience at Korak. The meal ranged from salmon carpaccio and pasta to escargot, and finished with a beautifully roasted duck. The food was flavorful and inspired by the land and regional ingredients. It was especially magical sitting outside watching the sunset over the hills as we dined.

Extend your Trip in Split

Just a short flight from Zagreb is the coastal city of Split, an ancient town that I fell in love with during my 2 days there. It's definitely worth a visit if you have the time. 

Stay

Hotel Cornaro is a lovely, spacious option in the heart of the city. My room on the fifth floor had sea views, and I could also spy the great bell at the Palace. With an on-site restaurant, rooftop bar, and an impressive spa, it was the perfect oasis in the city. 

Do

Begin with a visit to Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient Roman complex that dominates the city center. Afterwards, we headed to Pazar, an open-air market full of fruits, vegetables and local souvenirs for you to peruse. 

Stop by Meštrović Gallery, a truly impressive estate with stunning gardens and equally beautiful views of the Adriatic Sea. The gallery was once the home of the artist Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most prominent modern sculptor and architect, and now houses some of his greatest works. 

Don't miss the chance to take a quick dip in the Adriatic Sea. It is within walking distance of the city center, and you'll be joined by plenty of enthusiastic locals cooling down from the summer heat.

Eat

Located within Diocletian's Palace, Makarun is a little garden restaurant that serves up fantastic homemade Makaruni pasta. I had the seafood tasting menu, which featured shrimp Makaruni, beautifully cooked sea bass, and fresh figs from the owner's garden with honey. 

Ma: Toni is an intimate yet lively restaurant that feels rustic and old-world; their steaks are cooked to perfection.

Take a Day Trip

Venture into the Dalmatian Hinterlands to visit the town of Vrgorac, at the foot of Matokit Mountain. This agricultural heaven is known for its strawberries, vineyards, watermelons and prosciutto. I came here to try traditional peka, a Croatian dish in which meat or seafood is slowly cooked with potatoes and vegetables under a bell-shaped iron or clay lid buried in hot wood embers. We had the pleasure of enjoying this specialty dish at the local Borovac family farm. 

After a filling lunch of strukli, fresh prosciutto, homemade cheese, and slow-cooked beef and potatoes, we headed over to Poetica Distillery to sample their wide range of award-winning gins. Getting to tour the grounds and learn the process for each of their specialty products was such an eye-opening experience.

Chamidae traveled to Croatia at the invitation of Visit Croatia and United Airlines. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.