How to get around in Croatia

Dotted with islands and beaches, rich in history, and packed with sophisticated cities and towns, Croatia has caught on with savvy travelers for good reason. Another explanation for its popularity? Getting around this small but unusually shaped country is generally a breeze.

Croatia’s bus network connects the country’s top destinations and just about everywhere in between, and offers a great option for travelers on a budget. Ferries let you hop along the coast and between islands. Driving around Croatia is fairly straightforward – and gives you access to places not well-served by public transportation. Flights and trains are an option for hops between the inland capital of Zagreb and the coast.

Transportation in Croatia does vary seasonally. In the busy tourism months of July and August, ferries run often but at full capacity – so it’s worth booking ahead and/or showing up early for buses and boats. Keep in mind that you might find yourself stuck in traffic on the way in and out of resort towns.

Between November and March, timetables for buses and ferries are reduced, meaning you should research your route and options ahead of time.

Read on for more to know about getting around Croatia.

An extensive bus network connects the country

Bus services in Croatia are both excellent and budget-friendly. Coaches connect cities, towns and villages on the mainland – although the peninsula of Istria (away from the main coastal route) and the islands have patchier networks. The majority of bus stations have central locations (usually and conveniently near ferry ports), making getting around straightforward. One exception is Dubrovnik, where the main bus station is around 5km from the old town (hop on a local bus or taxi to reach it).

Different companies often operate on the same route, and prices can vary. Luggage stowed in the baggage compartment under the bus costs extra (around €1.30 per piece). Buses between Split and Dubrovnik pass through Bosnian territory, so keep your passport or ID handy.

At large stations, you have to purchase bus tickets at the office, not from driver – and it’s worth booking ahead in high season. Major carriers include Arriva, FlixBus and Čazmatrans. Traveling.com is a useful website offering schedules and bookings.

Travel by boat to enjoy the beautiful coast

Boats connect the main coastal centers – Split, Dubrovnik, Šibenik, Zadar and Rijeka – and the surrounding islands year-round, with extra services during the tourist season. 

Ferryboats are comfortable, with seating inside and out on the deck. The larger boats have restaurants and bars, and almost all have at least a snack counter. Most offer free wi-fi, though the signal is variable. Note in Croatia, a “ferry” refers exclusively to car ferries (which can also be used by foot passengers), whereas a “catamaran” is a faster, passenger-only service.

You can usually buy tickets online (Jadrolinija is the main operator), but pre-booking doesn’t guarantee you a space on a particular sailing. If you’re bringing your car on the boat, plan on getting to the wharf early in peak season. Foot passengers pay less, have more flexibility and can generally rent a car, scooter or bicycle when they arrive on a given island.

Traveling by ferry or catamaran in Croatia can be glorious – indeed, such passages are often highlights of a trip here. Sitting on the deck in the sunshine, you can watch the stunning landscape drift past you at a leisurely pace. Lopsided pines, bright wildflowers, coves, porpoises and fishing villages roll by as the sun shifts overhead. Relax and enjoy the journey.

Rent a car for flexibility

Driving is an excellent option if you’re in a family or group, or if you want to pack in as much as you can in a short trip. With your own set of wheels, you can create an itinerary with visits to the hill towns and resorts of Istria, or combine a tour of the Dalmatian coast with nearby national parks like Paklenica and Krka.

In Croatia, vehicles drive on the right and roads are mostly excellent, although there are stretches where service stations are scarce. With most places within a few hours of each other, journey times are short. At around 6 hours, Zagreb to Dubrovnik is the longest drive you’re likely to undertake, and one of the few major routes that isn’t entirely on a multi-lane highway (the last section through southern Dalmatia is yet to be upgraded).

Car rentals are available in all major towns and airports. Local companies are often cheaper, though the big chains do offer one-way rentals, allowing for additional planning flexibilty. You may get a lower rate by booking from abroad or getting a fly-drive package. To rent a car, you must be 18 or over and have a valid license and a credit card to cover insurance excess. Hitching is not recommended, but carpooling is an option – BlaBlaCar has a good local presence.

Note that some highways and other routes have tolls. The first set of booths you encounter when you enter a highway dispenses a ticket; present this at the booths when you leave the highway to pay the toll due.

Fly or take the train to get across the country

Croatia’s train network is limited and often slower than buses. But it’s not a bad bet if you’re exploring inland Croatia, or heading between Zagreb and coastal cities such as Rijeka, Pula or Split. The Croatian Railways website lists current schedules and prices.

Short commercial flights are the quickest way to get between Zagreb and the coast. While connections between coastal cities are less frequent, a flight between the Istrian capital of Pula and Dubrovnik, for example, can be useful if you time it right. Check Croatia Airlines’ schedules to see if this is an option for you.

There aren’t many flights to the islands – most visitors get a boat from the nearest mainland port – although you can reach Brač Island from Zagreb.

Explore the islands on a bicycle

Bikes are easy to rent in coastal destinations. Relatively flat islands such as Pag and Lošinj offer the most relaxed cycling, while the winding, hilly roads on other islands have more spectacular views.

Be careful in built-up areas: many roads are busy highways with no dedicated bicycle lanes. You’ll see Nextbike’s bikeshare stations in many cities, especially Zagreb, which has decent cycling infrastructure – download the app to get started. Some tourist offices, especially in the Kvarner and Istria regions, have maps of bike routes and rental information.

Taxis can help you in cities and airports

App-based taxi services such as Uber, Eko Taxi, Wizi and Radio Taxi operate in Zagreb and other main cities. In tourist centers such as Dubrovnik, look for signboards listing the official rates according to the destination. If taking an independent taxi, determine the fare before starting the trip.

Use bus and tram networks in larger cities

Many cities and resorts are small enough to walk around. Zagreb’s tram network is useful for the train and bus stations, while a short funicular connects the Lower and Upper Towns. Local buses are fairly frequent in most cities and usefully connect Lapad Bay with central Dubrovnik. Bus tickets are usually €1–2 – with a small discount if you buy tickets at a tisak (newsstand) – and need to be stamped once you board.

Accessible transportation is limited in Croatia

Travelers with mobility issues will find the cobbled streets and many steps of Croatia’s old towns challenging. Many beaches are accessed via steps or rocky walkways, with those near hotels and resorts more likely to have ramps.

Public toilets at bus stations, train stations, airports and large public venues are usually wheelchair-accessible. Bus and train stations in Zagreb, Zadar, Rijeka, Split and Dubrovnik are accessible, but the ferries are not.