©rusm/Getty Images
Istria
Continental Croatia meets the Adriatic in Istria (Istra to Croats), the heart-shaped, 3600-sq-km peninsula in the country's northwest. The bucolic interior of rolling hills and fertile plains attracts food- and culture-focused visitors to Istria’s hilltop villages, rural hotels and farmhouse restaurants, while the indented coastline is enormously popular with the sun-and-sea set. Though vast hotel complexes line much of the coast and the rocky beaches are not Croatia’s best, facilities are wide-ranging, the sea is clean and secluded spots are still plentiful.
Istria's madly popular coast gets flooded with central European tourists in summer, but you can still feel alone and undisturbed in the peninsula's interior, even in mid-August. Add acclaimed gastronomy (starring fresh seafood, prime white truffles, wild asparagus, top-rated olive oils and award-winning wines), sprinkle it with historical charm and you have a little slice of heaven.
Latest Stories from Istria
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Istria.
See
Euphrasian Basilica
Top billing in Poreč goes to the 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica, a World Heritage Site and one of Europe’s finest intact examples of Byzantine art. Built on the site of a 4th-century oratory, the complex includes a church, an atrium and a baptistery. The glittering 6th-century mosaics in the apse of the church are the highlights. The belfry, accessed through the octagonal baptistery, affords an intimate view of the old town.
See
Roman Amphitheatre
Pula’s most famous and imposing sight is this 1st-century oval amphitheatre, overlooking the harbour northeast of the old town. It's a huge and truly magnificent structure, slotted together entirely from local limestone and known locally as the Arena. Designed to host gladiatorial contests and seating up to 20,000 spectators, it still serves the mass-entertainment needs of the local populace in the shape of concerts and film-festival screenings.
See
Temple of Augustus
Fronted by a high porch supported by six Corinthian columns, this small but perfectly proportioned temple was built sometime between 2 BC and AD 14. It survived the Christian era by being converted into a church, only for it to be destroyed by a bomb in 1944. The subsequent stone-by-stone reconstruction has brought it back to something closely approaching its former glory, and it now houses a small archaeological display.
See
St Blaise’s Church
This handsome neobaroque church was completed in 1800 but commenced 40 years earlier, when Venice was still the style-setter for Istria. With its 63m-high bell tower modelled on St Mark’s in Venice, it’s the largest parish church in Istria, and worth a visit for its magnificent altars alone. The mummies are in a curtained-off area behind the main altar.
See
St Euphemia's Church
Built from 1725 to 1736, this imposing structure – the largest baroque church in Istria – dominates Rovinj from its hilltop location in the middle of the old town. Its 61m-high bell tower is older than the present church; construction commenced in 1654 and lasted 26 years. It's modelled on the campanile of St Mark’s in Venice, and is topped by a 4m copper statue of St Euphemia, who shows the direction of the wind by turning on a spindle.
See
Castle
Looming over the chasm, Pazin’s castle is the largest and best-preserved medieval structure in all of Istria. First mentioned in AD 983, the castle has had different architectural styles added to it over the centuries. The entrance ticket includes access to its two moderately interesting museums – the Pazin Town Museum (www.muzej-pazin.hr) and the Istrian Ethnographic Museum (www.emi.hr).
See
Pazin Chasm
Pazin’s most renowned site is undoubtedly this 100m-deep abyss, through which the Pazinčica River sinks into subterranean passages forming three underground lakes. Its shadowy depths inspired the imagination of Jules Verne, as well as numerous Croatian writers. Visitors can walk the 1.3km marked path inside the natural canyon, which takes about 45 minutes and involves a gentle winding climb.
See
Pula Aquarium
Not just any fish tank, this extraordinary aquarium occupies an entire 19th-century military fort – one of 55 built to defend the Austro-Hungarian Empire's main naval base. There are even sharks in an old artillery unit. The displays are well laid out and themed, with an emphasis on environmental issues. The aquarium does its bit, operating a sea-turtle rescue centre. Other attractions include rays, crabs, eels, starfish, anemones, seahorses, jellyfish, caimans, octopuses and a huge Indian python.
See
Geržinić
This award-winning winery in the hamlet of Ohnići, 14km northeast of Poreč, has been in the same family for a century. It cultivates 10 hectares of vineyards producing a range of varieties (chardonnay, teran, syrah and a particularly good malvazija, yellow muscat and cabernet sauvignon), along with rakija (grappa) and an olive oil rated among the top 100 in the world. It's a great place to stop for a tasting, though you're best to call ahead.
Featured videos
Incredible ruins you've probably never heard of
2:53