Croatia

Central Dalmatia is the most action-packed and diverse part of Croatia, with pretty islands, quiet ports, rugged mountains, numerous castles and an emerging culinary scene, as well as three Unesco World Heritage Sites: Diocletian’s Palace in Split, the medieval walled town of Trogir and the ancient strip fields of the Stari Grad plain on the island of Hvar. Throughout it all, the rugged 1500m-high Dinaric Range provides a dramatic background. Hot spots include the buzzing Mediterranean-flavoured city of Split and gorgeous little Hvar Town, where the cashed meet the trashed on the Adriatic's most glamorous party island. But if it's relaxation you're after, there are seductive sandy beaches and pebbly coves scattered about islands near and far. Best of all, Dalmatia is usually warmer than Istria or the Kvarner Gulf. You can plunge into the crystalline Adriatic from the middle of May right up until the end of September.

Central Dalmatia

Sheltered by soaring mountains, the Kvarner Gulf has long been loved by visitors attracted to the mild climate and cobalt waters, and those in search of more than just beach appeal. In the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the wealthy built holiday homes here, bestowing places like Rijeka and Opatija with a rich legacy of stately Habsburg-era architecture. From both of these neighbouring towns you can easily connect to hiking trails inside the protected forests of Učka Nature Park and Risnjak National Park. The islands of Cres, Lošinj, Krk and Rab all have highly atmospheric old port towns and stretches of unspoilt coastline dotted with remote coves for superb swimming. Wildlife puts in an appearance, too: Cres has an important griffon-vulture population, Lošinj has a marine centre devoted to preserving the Adriatic's dolphins and turtles, while bears (though elusive) may be sighted in both Učka and Risnjak.

Kvarner

Serving the classic Dalmatian cocktail of historic towns, jewel-like waters, rugged limestone mountains, sun-kissed islands, gorgeous climate and Mediterranean cuisine, this region is a holidaymaker's dream. Yet it's the cities and islands further south that hog all the limelight, leaving Northern Dalmatia, if not quite undiscovered, then certainly less overrun. Yachties can sail between unpopulated islands without a shred of development, lost in dreams of the Mediterranean of old, while hikers can wander lonely trails where bears and wolves still dwell, and explore three of Croatia's most impressive national parks, which shelter in the hinterland. By contrast, Zadar is a cultured city rich in museums, Roman ruins, restaurants and hip bars. Summertime clubbers gravitate to Zrće Beach and Tisno, which together form the nucleus of Croatia’s premier clubbing scene.

Northern Dalmatia

From the island of Korčula in the northwest to the dreamy plains of Konavle in the southeast, Southern Dalmatia is a region to be savoured by beach seekers, wine lovers and history buffs alike. Yet one location understandably eclipses any discussion of Southern Dalmatia: the remarkable old town of Dubrovnik. Ringed by mighty defensive walls that dip their feet in the cerulean sea, the city encapsulates the very essence of a medieval Mediterranean fantasy. Dubrovnik is simply unique; its beauty is bewitching, its setting sublime. Thousands of visitors walk along its marble streets every day, gazing, gasping and happily snapping away. When Dubrovnik's tourist scrum threatens to overwhelm, a reinvigorating balm is but a quick boat or bus ride away. Refresh yourself on the shady paths of Trsteno Arboretum or, if that doesn't do the trick, the divine wine and oysters of the sparsely populated Pelješac Peninsula surely will.

Southern Dalmatia

Continental Croatia meets the Adriatic in Istria (Istra to Croats), the heart-shaped, 3600-sq-km peninsula in the country's northwest. The bucolic interior of rolling hills and fertile plains attracts food- and culture-focused visitors to Istria’s hilltop villages, rural hotels and farmhouse restaurants, while the indented coastline is enormously popular with the sun-and-sea set. Though vast hotel complexes line much of the coast and the rocky beaches are not Croatia’s best, facilities are wide-ranging, the sea is clean and secluded spots are still plentiful. Istria's madly popular coast gets flooded with central European tourists in summer, but you can still feel alone and undisturbed in the peninsula's interior, even in mid-August. Add acclaimed gastronomy (starring fresh seafood, prime white truffles, wild asparagus, top-rated olive oils and award-winning wines), sprinkle it with historical charm and you have a little slice of heaven.

Istria

Most tourists forget this big chunk of Croatia, but it was made for road-tripping. The bucolic northern region of Zagorje is sprinkled with itsy-bitsy villages and vineyard-speckled hills with the odd medieval castle and spa town thrown in for good measure. On its eastern edge, on the route to Hungary, Varaždin is a baroque beauty of a small town with an important history that belies its laid-back appeal.

The Pannonian plains and flat farmland of Slavonia stretch out southeast towards Serbia. In this primarily agricultural region dip into culture amid the fine architecture of lively Osijek, the two museums of Vukovar and inside Ɖakovo's majestic cathedral. Afterwards head out into the countryside once more to drive the wine roads and for boat trips in the vast wetlands at Kopački Rit Nature Park.

A journey here is as far away in character from the bustle of the coastal resorts as you can get.

Inland Croatia

Croatia's second-largest city, Split (Spalato in Italian) is a great place to see Dalmatian life as it’s really lived. Always buzzing, this exuberant city has just the right balance between tradition and modernity. Step inside Diocletian’s Palace (a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of the world’s most impressive Roman monuments) and you’ll see dozens of bars, restaurants and shops thriving amid the atmospheric old walls where Split has been humming along for thousands of years. To top it off, Split has a unique setting. Its dramatic coastal mountains act as the perfect backdrop to the turquoise waters of the Adriatic and help divert attention from the dozens of shabby high-rise apartment blocks that fill its suburbs. It's this thoroughly lived-in aspect of Split that means it will never be a fantasy land like Dubrovnik, but perhaps it's all the better for that.

Split

Regardless of whether you are visiting Dubrovnik for the first time or the hundredth, the sense of awe never fails to descend when you set eyes on the beauty of the old town. Indeed it’s hard to imagine anyone becoming jaded by the city’s limestone streets, baroque buildings and the endless shimmer of the Adriatic, or failing to be inspired by a walk along the ancient city walls that protected the capital of a sophisticated republic for centuries. Although the shelling of Dubrovnik in 1991 horrified the world, the city has bounced back with vigour to enchant visitors again. Marvel at the interplay of light on the old stone buildings; trace the peaks and troughs of Dubrovnik's past in museums replete with art and artefacts; take the cable car up to Mt Srđ; exhaust yourself climbing up and down narrow lanes – then plunge into the azure sea.

Dubrovnik

Zagreb is made for strolling. Wander through the Upper Town's red-roof and cobblestone glory, peppered with church spires. Crane your neck to see the domes and ornate upper-floor frippery of the Lower Town's mash-up of secessionist, neo-baroque and art deco buildings. Search out the grittier pockets of town where ugly-bland concrete walls have been transformed into colourful murals by local street artists. This city rewards those on foot.

Afterwards, do as the locals do and head to a cafe. The cafe culture here is just one facet of this city's vibrant street life, egged on by a year-round swag of events that bring music, pop-up markets and food stalls to the plazas and parks. Even when there's nothing on, the centre thrums with youthful energy, so it's no surprise that Croatia's capital is now bringing in the city-break crowd. Zagreb is the little city that could.

Zagreb

The west coast is Istria's tourist showcase, with numerous beaches, a trio of fascinating historic towns and Tito's former playground, the gorgeous Brijuni Islands National Park. Tourism infrastructure is well developed here, with plenty of accommodation options and some great restaurants. Just across the water is Italy, and the pervasive Italian influence makes it seem even closer. Italian is a second language in Istria, many Istrians have Italian passports and each town name has an Italian counterpart.

Istria's West Coast

Separated only by an 11m-wide canal and joined by a bridge, these two sparsely populated and scenic islands in the Kvarner archipelago are often treated as a single entity. Although their topography is different, the islands’ identities are blurred by a shared history.

Nature lovers will be in heaven here. Both islands are criss-crossed by hiking and biking trails, and the surrounding waters are home to the only known resident population of dolphins in the Adriatic. Much of the sea off the eastern coast is protected by the Lošinj Dolphin Reserve, the first of its kind in the Mediterranean.

Wilder, greener and more mountainous Cres (Cherso in Italian) has remote campgrounds, pristine beaches, a handful of medieval villages and a real off-the-beaten-track feel. The 31km-long Lošinj (Lussino in Italian) is more populated and touristy and offers more lush vegetation.

Lošinj & Cres Islands

Head inland from the Istrian coast and you’ll notice that crowds dissipate, hotel complexes disappear and what emerges is an unspoilt countryside of medieval hilltop towns, pine forests, fertile valleys and vineyard-dotted hills. The pace slows down considerably, defined less by the needs of tourists and more by the demands of harvesting grapes, hunting for truffles, picking wild asparagus and cultivating olive groves. Farmhouses open their doors to visitors looking for authentic holiday experiences, remote rustic taverns serve up slow-food delights and Croatia’s top winemakers provide tastings in their cellars. Hilltop villages that once seemed doomed to ruin are attracting colonies of artists and artisans as well as well-heeled foreigners. While many compare the region to Tuscany (and the Italian influence can’t be denied), it’s a world all of its own.