Discover the joy of steam on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, England

Few things evoke nostalgia quite like a steam train. These beasts of iron and steel shaped Britain and remain ingrained deep in the nation’s psyche long after their heyday. Thankfully, many branch lines and steam engines have been resurrected by volunteers, becoming part of a rich tapestry of heritage lines that criss-cross the country today. One of the finest examples is the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (NYMR).

I’d heard so much about this train journey during my time living in the UK, but never got around to doing it. So when I returned for a visit, I knew that this was my chance – not just to travel through some of Yorkshire’s finest scenery, but to travel back in time.

Start: Pickering
Finish: Whitby
Distance: 24 miles
Duration: 1 hour 40 minutes
Ticket types: Full day rovers (which allow for unlimited journeys on the day), shorter journeys, and Pullman dining experiences.
How to book: Online, or in person at any station along the line.

Advertisement

Part 1: Departure, Pickering

Pickering is a historic market town on the edge of the North Yorkshire Moors National Park, nicknamed "The Gateway to the Moors". I arrive on a Monday, when its traditional weekly market is in full swing, and pick up a couple of snacks for the journey. To discover more about the heritage and culture of Pickering, the Beck Isle Museum is worth a visit, as is the 13th-century Pickering Castle, originally built for William the Conqueror. 

Pickering’s 1930s-era train station has been lovingly restored by NYMR volunteers. Under its grand, vaulted roof, passengers of all ages wait eagerly for their first sight of a steam engine. Thirty minutes before departure, it appears – a glorious LMS Class 5 (no.44806), known fondly as a "Black 5" by any self-respecting trainspotter. Pulsing and hissing, white steam blooms from its engine, as plum and custard-coloured carriages follow behind. I jump on board and pick a spot by the window, settling down into the well-worn banquette seating. 

Part 2: The journey from moorland to seaside

The train puffs out of Pickering and I crack the window wide open, listening to the rhythmic chuffing fill the valley, reverberating off the pine and oak trees. Flakes of soot fall through the window like black snow – all part of the magic.

At Levisham, the forest slips away, giving way to the North Yorkshire Moors in all their glory. Grand hills rise up, dappled in green and purple heather. Tom Cruise filmed one of his most audacious Mission: Impossible – Dead Reckoning Part One sequences on the railway (there’s no sign of him today). 

The line leaves the moors behind at Goathland, dropping down dramatically to Grosmont, past an array of steaming engines and sleeping diesels in the sidings, before finally winding along the River Esk all the way to Whitby, one of the UK’s most beloved seaside towns.

Food and drink

Each service on the NYMR offers drinks and snacks from the refreshment car, while Pickering, Goathland and Grosmont all have station cafes. Here, you’ll find a great range of sandwiches, pies, cakes and other tasty snacks alongside hot and cold drinks.

Key stops along the route

Pickering – The 1930s-era station is part of a historic Yorkshire market town with traditional markets every Monday and a 13th-century castle.

Levisham – The 1912-style station is surrounded by stunning North Yorkshire Moors. The start of many brilliant walks. 

Goathland – A charming "celebrity station" otherwise known as Hogsmeade in the first Harry Potter film, and Aidensfield in ITV’s Heartbeat.

Advertisement

Grosmont – Home and hub of the NYMR, there are numerous engine sheds to explore, a well-stocked gift shop and a link to the National Rail network.

Whitby – Known for its narrow streets and bustling harbor overlooked by the striking ruins of Whitby Abbey.

Scenic highlights and recommendations

The whole journey is a delight from start to finish, as if you’ve wound back the clock by 100 years. I watch as a postman does his rounds, barely glancing up as if the steam engine is nothing novel. Further on, we chug past a school sports field, every student waving excitedly.

Nature along the route is a feast for the eyes – simply sit back and enjoy as it rolls past the window. If you’re a keen walker, then there are a number of stops worth making. From Levisham, there are all kinds of trails over the moors. A popular route climbs up to the spectacular Hole of Horcum, a massive natural amphitheatre. Another takes you to the ruins of Skelton Tower, offering an extraordinary view down into Newtondale.

Between Goathland and Grosmont, there’s the rail trail (a walking and cycling route), which follows the original railway line between the two villages, offering plenty of natural beauty with the River Esk flowing down out of the moors. Along this trail, Birch Hall Inn is a must-stop – it’s one of Britain’s smallest pubs, frozen in time and full of character.

Grosmont feels, looks and sounds like a model railway village. Being the hub of the NYMR, the station is a hive of activity with many trains coming and going throughout the day. There are viewing platforms and line-side spots where you can capture some fantastic photos. It’s well worth walking over to the engine sheds, where you can get a behind-the-scenes look at the running of the railway and pick up some souvenirs. 

Part 3: Arrive in Whitby

Whitby is hard not to love. Rounding the last bend of the River Esk, I spot the historic Whitby Abbey ruins perched dramatically on the cliffs above the harbor. It’s these ruins, and the 199 steps leading up to them, that inspired Bram Stoker’s Dracula. 

We arrive in Whitby punctually, and I’m off the train and into the heart of the town in minutes. The journey feels like I’ve passed through a dozen Yorkshire postcards all at once, and I can’t wait to do it all again in reverse tomorrow.

How to spend the day in Whitby

If you can, definitely make the time to explore Whitby. Its narrow streets are home to many quirky, independent shops full of traditional confectionery, arts and crafts, old books and jewelery. When you’re done, head up to the abbey for wonderful views looking out across the coastline and back towards the moors. 

Having worked up an appetite, no trip to Whitby would be complete without a classic fish and chips. This dish is the very essence of British seaside culture, and there are several great restaurants and "chippies" to choose from. I loved Angel Fisheries.

There is a luggage storage option by the station, courtesy of Radical Storage. The trains are timetabled to run a few times from Whitby per day – plan ahead, so that you have enough time to explore, while not missing the last train back.

Where to stay

The George Hotel comes highly regarded and it’s right next to the station. I stayed at Starfish House, which was very spacious and fairly priced. 

Part 4: How to make it happen

The North Yorkshire Moors Railway provides plenty of car parking at its main stations of Pickering and Grosmont. If you’re making your way via public transport, there are two options.

If you’re arriving internationally, you’ll most likely be flying into one of the London airports, or Manchester Airport. From here, you can take a national rail service north toward York or Middlesbrough. From Middlesbrough, catch a train to Grosmont station, where you can link up with the NYMR. However, this can be quite a long journey, especially if you’re traveling from the south.

I found that the best option is to travel to York (or Malton), and then catch the 840 Coastliner bus service to Pickering. This service has been voted Britain’s most scenic bus journey, and runs all the way to and from Whitby.

Tickets

Tickets for the NYMR can be purchased online. An adult day rover costs £38.50, with one child (4-15 years) going free for every adult. If booked four or more days in advance, you can save yourself 10%. You can also purchase tickets on the day of travel at any of the stations – just make sure you leave enough time before departure to do so. 

When to go

The railway’s peak operational period is through the summer months (May – September), when there will typically be around eight trains a day. In the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn (March – May and September – November), trains will still run on select days, but at a lower frequency (around four a day). It’s typically closed through winter, with a few special Christmas services running.

The railway hosts many special events and galas throughout the year. Days out with "Thomas the Tank Engine" prove popular with the kids, while rockstar steam locomotives including the Tornado and the Sir Nigel Gresley visit the railway. If you’d rather skip the crowds, then consider visiting midweek in the shoulder seasons.

Things to know

A day rover ticket allows for unlimited journeys along the line. To really get the most out of the ticket, you should get off at the various stations to explore the beautiful villages, forests and moorlands, before catching another train onwards. You can also link up some of the stations with a walk, like the rail trail between Goathland and Grosmont.