Central Oregon in Winter: Where to Stay, Eat, Ski and Play

Central Oregon emits an unmistakable fragrance: the smell of ponderosa pine. In this region, it feels as if you’ve wandered into a forest – and, indeed, you may have: namely, the Deschutes National Forest. Most striking is the snow-capped Cascade Range, composed almost entirely of glacially eroded volcanoes. From most points, you can see all of them: Black Butte, Broken Top, Mt Bachelor, Mt Jefferson, Mt Washington, Three Fingered Jack and the Three Sisters (South, Middle, North). Almost immediately after your arrival in Central Oregon and confronted with such natural beauty, your blood pressure will drop, your lungs will fill with fresh air – and your mind will swirl with all the invigorating possibilities that lie ahead.

That’s the way I feel every time I arrive at Redmond Municipal Airport (RDM), one of the country’s most charming regional airports (a $180M expansion is underway). As a frequent visitor to Central Oregon, my favorite time of year to visit is winter, when the high desert temperatures hover just above freezing. The weather is simply perfect for partaking in the outdoor action for which this place is so beloved, whether you ski, snowshoe, ice skate or just take occasional cold-weather trail walks. Wake up at dawn to hit the slopes of Mt Bachelor, spend the afternoon shopping in any of the area’s quaint towns, enjoy cocktails by a roaring fire, and savor delicious meals prepared by innovative and inspired chefs. 

Give yourself plenty of time – a week or longer – to reap the benefits of being in this extraordinary place. Here’s a breakdown of how to enjoy the winter season in Central Oregon.

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• How to Get to Central Oregon: Fly into Redmond, or drive 3.5 hours from Portland. If you want to take the train from points north or south on the West Coast, Amtrak stops in Chemult, Oregon; an Amtrak Thruway coach will then transport you to the bus station in Bend. The journey takes approximately 90 minutes.

• Getting Around Central Oregon: In winter, we advise renting a car outfitted with chains or snow tires. Shuttles and car hires are available as well. Note that sections of the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway are closed to vehicles once it becomes impassible, typically from late November through April or May.

• What to Pack for a Winter Trip to Central Oregon: Bring plenty of layers for the big freeze-thaw swing, and apparel commensurate with your preferred activities. A swimsuit for hot tubs, saunas and spas and footwear with traction are never bad ideas. The vibe overall is quite casual, but you may want one dress-up option for a nice dinner out. 

• Things to Know: Equipment to rent, including ski and snowboard gear, is readily available throughout the region. Some dining establishments require advance reservations, and some Sno-Parks require permits.

Where to Stay in Central Oregon 

Across its three-and-a-half counties, Central Oregon has several hotels, resorts and serviced rental homes to consider. You can't go wrong with any of the properties that we recommend.

Sunriver Resort

Perfect for outdoorsy families and groups

Sunriver sits within 3300 acres of wilderness, with winter programming that makes it ideal for families who want a fully self-contained resort experience. Think of it as a community unto itself, with multiple dining options (more on those later) and a variety of winter activities, including Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, horse-drawn carriage rides and holiday light shows. If skiing is on the menu, the resort offers discounted lift tickets and daily shuttle service to Mt Bachelor.

Tetherow Resort

Perfect for relaxation

Bordering the Deschutes National Forest, award-winning Tetherow features 50 boutique rooms and 30-plus vacation homes. The property has three on-site restaurants: Coorie, evoking the Scottish Highlands; The Row, a more casual affair; and The Café, where guests can have breakfast or grab snacks. There’s also a fitness facility with a sauna, hot tubs and a heated pool that remains open all winter. Guests can also grab a shuttle to Mt Bachelor.

Black Butte Ranch

Perfect for adventure

Black Butte Ranch sits within a meadow west of the town of Sisters. Its main lodge is the center of it all, with windows framing the peaks and the lake below. There are multiple dining options, from The Lodge Restaurant in the evenings; Aspen Lounge for cocktails; and Lakeside Bistro for breakfast or lunch. The Ranch is known for its numerous rental homes and condos, which range from one to seven bedrooms. This is the place to stay if you’re planning on skiing at nearby Hoodoo. Its ski-and-stay package pairs discounted lift tickets with a Saturday shuttle to the region’s original ski hill as well as Autobahn Tubing Park.

Juniper Preserve

Perfect for wellness seekers

Situated in a high-desert juniper forest between Bend and Redmond, Juniper Preserve puts an emphasis on wellness, with robust fitness offerings and facilities, a year-round heated pool and hot tub, a poolside barrel sauna, and full-service spa treatments (more on that below). Multiple upscale accommodations include rooms and suites at Juniper Lodge and luxury vacation-home rentals. Wander the extensive grounds to take in all the glorious nature that surrounds you. Dine at one of the resort’s multiple restaurants, shop local at the small general store and take part in a wide variety of indoor and outdoor winter activities.

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Trailhead Lodge

Perfect for locked-in skiers and snowboarders

The Trailhead Lodge gives an indoor-glamping vibe and doesn’t over-index on amenities – and is thus an excellent choice for diehards who want to spend most of their time on the mountain while also having easy access to town. Trailhead Lodge provides lockers for gear storage, a year-round hot tub to recover from a long day of skiing moguls, and a grab-and-go cafe for coffee or an afternoon glass of wine or a beer.

Other standout stays in Central Oregon include Redmond’s Eagle Crest Resort, and Brasada Ranch, with its modern Cascade Bungalows. In Bend’s historic, walkable downtown, you can’t do better than The Oxford, a AAA Four-Diamond-recognized boutique hotel.

Where to Eat and Drink

Including the resort restaurants mentioned above, Central Oregon has many excellent dining and drinking options. Sisters is home to The McArthur Restaurant and Bar, the latest dining option from successful Central Oregon restaurateur Paul Mercer. In a relaxed yet sophisticated environment, expect cuisine comprised of organic, locally sourced ingredients – think fresh oysters, duck fat fries, elk sliders and mushroom risotto. If you’re in search of an occasion-worthy steakhouse, reserve a table at the Redmond outpost of Brickhouse Steakhouse. At the nearby SCP Hotel Redmond, you’ll delight in dining at the in-house restaurant, Terra Kitchen, which has an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients and vegetarian-friendly Mediterranean fare, and is open for lunch and dinner.

At Sunriver Resort, breakfast at the Lodge Kitchen is a must. For cocktails and dining later into the evening, settle in at Owl’s Nest. Nearby, Sunriver Brewing in the Village at Sunriver is a fun time, with fabulous food; The Grille at Crosswater serves classic American fare (order the clam chowder) in a dining room surrounded by nature. Suttle Lodge’s fireplace-warmed Skip Bar is worth the detour off Santiam Pass. Wild Rye at Brasada Ranch is another excellent option, particularly if you’re a fan of cuisine prepared over fire.

If you’re looking for fine dining without the fuss, Ariana in Bend is a longstanding, outstanding choice. Co-chefs Andres and Ariana Fernandez turn out excellent seasonal chef’s tasting menus; reservations are a must.

Spas and Wellness

These divine spas provide superior services as well as ample opportunities for relaxation, self-improvement and solitude. These facilities and amenities also provide the chance to experience properties beyond where you’re staying.

The Spa at Sunriver Resort

The Spa at Sunriver Resort effortlessly integrates its best-in-class treatments with a variety of fitness and wellness offerings. The spa’s signature booking is the private Oasis Room, where guests enjoy a soaking tub, rainforest shower and infrared sauna. Opt for a facial treatment with skincare lines by Dr Dennis Gross and Naturopathica. Wellness experiences include snowshoe forest bathing, yoga and sound healing.

Juniper Spa at Juniper Preserve

Surrounded by hundreds of acres of juniper forest, Juniper Spa offers a variety of locally inspired treatments, along with those inspired by Japanese, Ayurvedic and Nordic traditions. Guests can choose among daily wellness classes, with mindfulness sessions that take place in the property’s teepee and lava cave. The spa also utilizes more contemporary equipment, including a LightStim LED red-light therapy bed.

Shibui Spa at FivePine in Sisters

Within walking distance of downtown Sisters, Shibui feels more like a day spa than the others on this list. Every treatment includes access to a Swedish dry sauna and a thermal soaking tub that stays open year-round. Treatments range from massages to Ayurvedic facials to Himalayan salt body wraps. Skincare products include HydroPeptide and doTERRA aromatherapy oils, available for sale in the well-stocked gift shop.

Wellness experiences in Central Oregon can be as simple as snowy walks through the gorgeous grounds of Juniper Preserve or Brasada Ranch. Yoga lovers will find a home away from home at Namaspa Community, with a large and wide-ranging variety of classes, cheekily ranked from “extra spicy” (Power Flow) to “super mild” (Yin). In Redmond, prebook an appointment at Hawai‘ian-themed Ola‘ Day Spa, offering facials, massages, waxing, manicures and hair-care services.

What to Do in the Snow

When the white stuff comes down in Central Oregon, people come out to play. Whether you're a triple-black-diamond skier, a kid who loves to sled or skate, or someone who just enjoys a cozy fire outdoors, the winter wonderland you’ve always wanted is right outside your door here.

On the Mountain

The marquee attraction in Central Oregon in winter is Mt Bachelor. This ski resort sits at an elevation of 9065ft, its cone-like shape providing some 3365ft of vertical drop. The resort has 4320 acres of lift-served terrain and around 124 runs, making it one of the largest resorts in all of North America. You can rent your ski gear on the mountain (including a helmet) and also take lessons. Lift tickets range from $99 per day for adults in the early and late season, up to approximately $139 per day during the season's peak; Ikon Pass holders can ski Bachelor for up to 7 days. Rock Bar in the resort’s West Village Lodge is the place for a slope-side cocktail or meal: wrap up a day of shredding with nachos or a birria grilled cheese, and wash it all down with a famous “Mazama” Bloody Mary.

Atop Santiam Pass, Hoodoo Ski Area is an excellent, complementary alternative to Mt Bachelor: a bit less intense, but no less fun. The mountain offers 806 skiable acres and 32 runs off five lifts, with 1035ft of vertical drop topping out at just 5703ft; there’s also night skiing on Fridays and Saturdays. The low base elevation makes the season shorter than at Bachelor; it typically runs from late November or December into April. Adult day tickets run roughly $65–$75, and it’s on the Indy Pass, which makes it a solid-value day trip or family mountain rather than a resort destination.

Other Outdoor Adventures

With groomed routes running toward Sparks Lake and Todd Lake, Dutchman Flat Sno-Park is the main launch point for snowmobiling. Another favorite is Central Oregon Adventures’ 4-hour snowmobile lunch (or weekend brunch) tour to Elk Lake Resort. If snowmobile rides are out of your comfort zone, you can also reach Elk Lake Resort via snowcat shuttle. Don’t forget that you can also hike or climb in Smith Rock State Park in the winter. While conditions can be icy (wear spikes and take it slow), you’ll find significantly fewer crowds than in the warmer months. For something even more unique, enjoy the thrill of dog-sledding on the tree-lined trails of Mt Bachelor.

There's also plentiful ice skating in the region (the rink in the Village at Sunriver is a favorite). Other alfresco treats include mountain bonfires, and even some outdoor food truck parks.

If you’re planning to be in Central Oregon during Valentine’s Day weekend, grab passes to Bend’s WinterFest (February 12–14). Three-day passes include access to ice skating and performances at the Pavilion, live music at the Oregrown Main Stage at the Old Mill, ice carving demonstrations and more.

Towns to Explore

Sisters is extraordinarily charming, with a walkable Western-facaded downtown framed by the Three Sisters mountains. Wander around the renowned Stitchin’ Post quilt shop, peruse the stacks at Paulina Springs Books – then pull up a stool across the street at Sisters Saloon, housed in a historic building from 1912. In Prineville, swing by the free Bowman Museum to immerse yourself in Crook County’s and Central Oregon’s pioneer history. Drive over to Prineville Reservoir State Park, an International Dark Sky Park, for some self-guided stargazing on a crisp winter’s night. Over in Warm Springs, discover the treasures on view at the Museum at Warm Springs, which celebrates the culture of the region’s Wasco, Warm Springs and Paiute peoples. The collection of family heirlooms on display is as enlightening as it is mesmerizing.

Are you exhausted yet? Well, you can do as little or as much as you choose – but in the winter season, you’re definitely spoiled for choice. A cold-weather vacation to this magical place is unforgettably awesome. What are you waiting for?