The remote and ancient forest monastery of Ritigala (adult Rs 2000), 76km southeast of Anuradhapura, was abandoned in the 11th century after 1500 years of activity. The jungle-covered archaeological remains still have a deliciously unexplored feel to them.
Paths lead from the ticket office to the huge banda pokuna (artificial pond), which fills with water during the rainy season. From here, cross the inlet over a stone bridge and follow the ceremonial staircase past the first of three round junctions.
The first main ruin is a large reception building. A path to the right leads to the janthagara (monastery bathhouse), with a central sunken bath surrounded by a roofed colonnade. You can still see the grinding stones used to prepare herbs for baths.
Further up the flagstone staircase is the main junction, with two paths to the left. The first, just below the junction, leads down past half-hidden ruins to a monolithic bridge and raised library.
Further up the main staircase you finally get to Building No 16, a padhanaghara (meditation hall) set in a moat-like depression, which was used by the ascetic pansukulika (rag-robed) monks for meditation, teaching and ceremony. Look for the ornate latrine stone in the right corner.
Budget a couple of hours for a visit.
