If there is one place that wholly captures the romantic atmosphere of Sintra, it’s Quinta da Regaleira. It's the site where all visitors dash first (literally) from the moment they step off the train. Designed by Luigi Manini, the over-the-top decor of the gardens and the palace (he was a set designer, after all) became one of Sintra’s trademarks.
Start with the Palace
There’s a recommended course to visit Quinta da Regaleira, but no one chases after you for going in the "wrong" way. Therefore, while everyone is turning right to Poço Iniciático (Initiation Well), turn left to the chapel (under renovation at the time of writing, but still viewable from outside) and the palace.
There are so many decorative details drawing your attention on the way, but time hovers when you step inside the palace. Because most visitors will be waiting at the well or skipping the palace altogether, it’s like having the house to yourself: sensor lights turn on leading the way, info boards in English provide context, and, although you can’t enter the rooms, there’s enough space to see every intricate detail. Manini sure knew how to design to impress.
Poço Iniciático
The reality is, big or small, there’s always a queue at Poço Iniciático – waiting in line for half an hour is considered "not bad." Descending is optional (let the employee know you just want to see it from the top), and you shouldn't skip it, but visit it last after you have explored all other corners of Regaleira.
