Córdoba is rich in green spaces, but none rival Plaza San Martín, the city’s historic heart dating from 1577. Like plazas of the same name across Argentina, it honors national hero José de San Martín, yet its atmosphere is distinctly local. Squeaky loras (parakeets) nearly outnumber pigeons, weaving bulky stick nests in the shade trees or bickering atop the bronze equestrian statue of the general. Facing the square is the Iglesia Catedral, the country’s oldest continuously operating church. Begun in 1582 and consecrated in the early 1700s, it pairs a restrained, monumental facade with a lavish interior of gilded woodwork, frescoed arches and soaring ceilings. Beside it stands the elegant 15-arch passageway of the Cabildo, dating back to 1749. After housing prison cells, shops and the mayor's office, it’s now a museum and performance venue that hosts an occasional orchestra or exhibition.