Myōshin-ji (妙心寺; myoshinji.or.jp/english/access) is a separate world within Kyoto, a walled-off complex of temples and sub-temples that invites lazy strolling. Dating from 1342, Myōshin-ji belongs to the Rinzai school of Zen. There are 47 sub-temples, but only a few are open to the public.
From the north gate, follow the broad stone avenue flanked by rows of temples to the southern part of the complex. The eponymous Myōshin-ji temple is roughly in the middle of the complex. Your entry fee entitles you to a tour of several of the buildings of the temple. The ceiling of the Hattō (Lecture Hall) here features Kanō Tanyū's unnerving painting Unryūzu (dragon glaring in eight directions). Your guide will invite you to stand directly beneath the dragon; doing so makes it appear that it’s spiraling up or down.
Near the southwestern corner of the Myōshin-ji grounds, the peaceful sub-temple Taizō-in contains one of the city’s more interesting gardens, including a kare-sansui depicting a waterfall and islands, and a tatami-mat tearoom where you can enjoy a cup of matcha (¥500).
Shunkō-in, a sub-temple of Myōshin-ji, offers 90-minute zazen (seated Zen meditation) sessions for foreigners with English explanations for ¥3500; highly recommended.
