It would be hard to overestimate the importance of La Paz's many markets in the public consciousness or in the general health of the country. They are the lifeblood of the city, providing fresh food and other products in an urban space that still relies greatly on the surrounding country. Most of all, they are colorful and lively, picturesque and vibrant.
Mercado Rodriguez
On the Mercado Rodriguez streets, just a few blocks uphill from the Obelisk and the Mi Teleférico Morado station, is one of Bolivia's most picturesque markets. The action starts at 4am daily, when many of La Paz’s chefs arrive to take their pick of the very freshest produce.
You'll find the market lively all week, but Saturdays and Sundays are ideal days for a wander as the surrounding streets are closed. Get a glass of cold mocochinchi (dried peach boiled with cinnamon and sugar). Sample the spicy red fruits of the ulupicas, a wild pepper measuring 30,000 SHU (Scoville Heat Units)! Delight in the sight of pasankallas (Aymará for "toasted corn"), giant piles of multicolored toasted corn snacks smothered in sugar, being gobbled by the handful by the young and young at heart.
Mercado Camacho
Mercado Camacho. A fave of tourists and locals alike looking for quick bite to eat, including the noteworthy "Macho Camacho" sandwich named for the boxer of the same name: a heart attack waiting to happen with chorizo, fried egg and sliced hot dog atop a fresh maraqueta roll. You'll get a coffee to wash it down. There are other healthier choices, including rafters of fresh fruit juices, so don't fret.
Mercado Lanza
Mercado Lanza is a nice reward after a walk up from Plaza San Francisco, award yourself a glass of api (purple corn drink) and some tasty accompaniments like a salteña. You can also get a full meal. More structured than other markets, if you're staying in La Paz a while, it's a good place to stock up on groceries.
Mercado Negro
Dare we say that the ' Mercado Negro is aptly named, with plenty of goods of unknown origin, like (pirated?) CDs and DVDs, along with a raft of electronics. Perhaps you need a charger? A Blu-ray of Titanic? You'll find them here – but please, no photos! Also a site for buying brand-name jeans and other fashion accessories, which (ahem) may not be genuine.
Mercado de las Brujas
An obligatory stop in La Paz, the Mercado de las Brujas (Witches' Market) is conveniently located perpendicular to the popular Calle Sagarnaga. You'll want to stroll here, admiring the carvings, handmade belts, sweaters, and ponchos, and indigenous amulets like the famed llama fetuses. La Paz residents and visitors who have met a certain someone may buy a love potion here to win them over.
If you don't want to spend, there are stalls of tchotchkes like dolls, ashtrays, Tiwanaku statuettes, and postcards that are charming but not heavy on the wallet. At the far end are the musical instrument shops, where you can get a nice charango (mandolin-like chordophone), guitar or other well-made music makers.
