The Scalzi was a strict offshoot of the Carmelite order, and donors competed as to who could fund the most opulent part of this church. It is Longhena-designed (built 1654–80), with a ripplingly ornate facade by Giuseppe Sardi, an unusual departure for Venice, where baroque ebullience was usually reserved for interiors. It was a deliberate echo of a Roman style to help make the Discalced (meaning "barefoot"; scalzi in Italian) Carmelites posted here from Rome feel more at home. There's even an Ecstasy of St Theresa echoing Bernini's Roman masterpiece.
Sadly, the vault frescoes by Tiepolo in two of the side chapels are damaged, and his monumental nave ceiling was destroyed by a bomb in 1915. Before the main altar on your left, you might spot the tomb of Venice’s last doge, Ludovico Manin, who presided over the dissolution of the Republic in 1797, before the threat of Napoleon, and died in ignominy five years later. The altar itself is framed by huge twisted columns of red marble. Also, look out for Longhena's buff statue of St Sebastian in one of the side chapels.
A small shop tucked away beside the sanctuary sells essentials oils, liquors and jams made by the friars. It's also possible to arrange a visit to their walled gardens nearby.
